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Jewelite Seam

sign girl

New Member
We are having an argument here on whether the seam for the jewelite should be on top of the letter or on the bottom. I say the bottom so water doesn't sit in it, freeze, expand and break the jewelite apart. Anyone know the answer?
Tina
 

signbrad

New Member
I was taught to always put the seams out of sight—on top.

I believe that many trim-capped faces fall apart early from poor gluing. I have always glued the trim in two steps. First with water-thin Weldon in a syringe to hold the acrylic in place. Then a substantial bead of Weldon No. 16 when the thin stuff dries.

Brad in Kansas City
 

JohnnyInfamous

New Member
We always locate the seam where it is least noticeable. Realistically, the expanding ice wouldn't affect the letter at the Jewelite seam any more rapidly than it would affect the letter in other places. Therefore concealing the seam in a discrete spot makes more sense than locating it for weather durability reasons.

But you asked for us to weigh in on the theoretical argument of ice expansion in a seam, so the real question is where the liquid water will stand long enough to freeze. Surface tension is the key here. A seam on the side will allow the water to be pulled along the surface of the letter via gravity. A seam at the top or bottom will actually give the water a better nook to stagnate and freeze.

Think about the Jurassic Park scene where Malcolm sets a drop of water on Sattler's hand. She thinks the water will slide off but the roughness of the hair and skin gives the water something to grab onto. The seam is what would grab the water in this scenario and if gravity can't pull the water down, the water will naturally congregate in the seam, where the material is least smooth. Alternatively, if the seam is on the side, gravity can pull the water across the seam just like if you put the drop of water on the side of your hand.
 

kgirl

New Member
You put the Plasco Channel Letter Trim Cap seam at the top of a letter....and at the bottom for the inside of an "O"......

IMG_1921.JPG


IMG_3089.JPG
 
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signbrad

New Member
I agree with kgirl and johnnyinfamous that the joints need to be inconspicuously placed, not necessarily on top always.
I admit it's been ten years since I've done any serious trim-capping.
And for those who are new at trim-capping, if you use the hammer and nail method, expect sore fingers at the end of a day of trim-capping. That is the purpose, I am sure, of the bottle of ale in kgirl's photo. It's for soothing sore fingers. But it must be ice cold.
 

Billct2

Active Member
A little clear silicone wiped into the seam would eliminate any water penetration....but we never worried about it. I learned signbrads way, glue in place and then add another bead for good measure.
 

MikePro

New Member
+1 kgirl
+1 johnnybest (giggidy giggidy)
we put seams at top of letters and bottom of centers. least visible spot the better, assuming you're looking-up at it when installed.

overthinking it if you're assumng water freezing in seam & busting it apart. glue it right, with a bridge over the inside of the seam, and you should have no issue until the trim cap physically breaks-down a decade-plus from now.
 
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