I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
Id recommend Signlab10 (by Cadlink), it has a vinyl cutter only version for around $500. We use a couple seats of the print and cut version with our mimaki (C)JV-150-130 printers(/cutter) and our CG-130 FX II plotter. The main thing I like is that it is not a subscription based program, the way...
A lot of issues is technique, but one thing ive not seen mentioned is using the right squeegee (and a new one at that - dings can leave long bubbles). For regular transfer taped vinyl I tend to use the unfelted side of the orange orafol squeegees. But for (un)laminated prints I find the felt...
I got no problem applying vinyl, but id love to only ever have to remove from glass for the rest of my life. I use a regular Razer blade scraper that has a long handle (harbor freight central forge style - even has storage for more blades in the handle) with orange peel adhesive remover followed...
If it's going to be a high traffic area, you can always put paint protection film over top of the laminated vinyl in key areas or cover the whole thing. Cleaning the doors very well and using an adhesion promoter (like 3M primer 94 - for 3M vinyls only) and then an edge sealer pen will also help...
Ive done quite a few external metal doors. It will hold up just like a car door would. I would try and wrap the edges around to the seam (where inside and outside panels of the door meet) in the door if possible to help adhesion & finish the look.
Door decals that make the door seem like its...
The two pieces of equipment that are worth more than their weight in gold to me are our weeder and sheeter for weeding vinyl and applying masking tape to vinyl.
The next would be my gerber edges (I got two LE & one Edge 2). I'd get rid of every other piece of equipment if I could just run the...
What plotter are you using?
Is it "mirrored" front to back or side to side?
Cut>Plotting Defaults is mirror checked?
Are you cutting straight to port from signlab or using production spooler/VPM?
Are you cutting plain vinyl or trying to contour cut a print?
Are you running the latest...
The only way to know is to try it and see what you're comfortable with. I've done many of wraps with and without transfer tape (or start off with tape on flat areas and then peel it off for more flexibility around obstacles). You will notice a better results with a higher/premium cast vinyl...
We've used our laminator for 48in wide masking, but we usually use the weeder & sheeter machines. Best money we ever spent. Been using them for over 20 years.
I usually keep 3 strips (Left, Center, Right) of thin 1in banner material that are long enough to be taped to the print and the take up roll. This way I can start the print and walk away. It also helps to keep a more consistent tension on the print, which reduces banding at the start.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.