Recent content by peterprintingparty

Are you using anything else for static? I use a static reducer called staticide, it works reasonably well. Also, how close to the material are you printing? Just to make sure it isn't shadowing or anything like that. What material are you using? We keep our entire shop at around 30-50% humidity.

We've found that Roughmark was the best for walls, but lots will stick well enough to do the trick.

When we print on shiny stuff that the sensor can't read, we just put a 3" strip of whatever plain vinyl about 13" into a roll, and it'll read the edges and calibrate that way. Kind of a waste of material sometimes, but it works.

I use the Onsrud 33635 tool, RPM 16000 IPM 70 Plunge 35 And I use the mister I do two passes, but you can get away with one, I've just noticed doing one I tend to get chips underneath the material, which can cause vacuum failure and other problems. Looks like there are some new tools out there...

Old media can cause that. What RIP are you using. We've found changing strategies to solve some of those problems.

We've wrapped some doors at a cool event space in our area. Most of the doors were metal, but one was wood. We used IJ-39 with 3M 8519 overlam, worked like a charm (including wrapping around the edges). The wooden door was the only one that ended up with bubbles though. If you don't want to...

I've never seen banding like that with a clean nozzle check. How are your lamps? Have you printed on this material before? Is the profile made using this material?

I had an overheating issue on my 2260. Did all the things, switching bulbs, etc etc. Turned out it was just super dirty/caked on ink inside the housing where I couldn't get to since we had to disassemble it in order to find out how dirty it was. We still replaced the temp switch though.

I would do a white ink flush, and if that doesn't work talk to a tech to get a flush kit to try and purge the flush through the head. You really shouldn't let the nozzle outs sit for too long, it may be a lost cause. But white is always pretty finicky. You can also try soaking it with flush with...

Yeah, the statistics is ink printed, not total ink used. So waste ink is hard to factor in, but the amount of waste ink is pretty minimal compared to printed ink.

12,142.34 sq ft 11.334 L used (We've actually got quite a bit more on this printer but the counters were reset somewhat recently)

Just checked an old file we printed. 13.96 mL on 1.3m print. But this was in a backlit density mode, so I'd say 7mL would be pretty accurate for a production or high quality mode for most profiles I would think.

Grey VHB is what we've always gone to for ACM, it's meant to bond to metal. Also, we've use 3M 467 putting two pieces of ACM together for a really specific job for a picky customer. edit: These have always been for indoor signs.

So I figured it out. Turns out when I updated Caldera, it updated my device preferences and I had the wrong device selected when trying to profile. Huge headache trying to figure out what the problem was, turns out I'm just a big dummy. Thanks for the reply!

This may be a long shot, but it seems like I'm getting the runaround with Xrite. When I try to run the first part of profiling, I get a red blinking light on the camera arm and I get a notification that "Calibration Failed". The arm won't even move when I hit "Start". We've had this profiler for...