Recent content by Pitzu

Usually it's a damper problem. If you have any doubt, you can swap the dampers.

It's a known Illustrator issue since CC https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1810764

I don't know if the brand we use (Apla XPS RF) is found in the US, but the most important is to be high density and have smooth faces, since you can also find models with rugged faces. It's widely used in construction for thermal insulation. We mostly use water based paint, since the solvent...

Make sure you don't have two copies of the design, one on top of the other. If they are perfectly on top of each other it can be hard to see. Also, switch the view to wireframe mode, it might help. You can find a similar discussion here: https://signs101.com/threads/cutting-twice.90134/

You can use their software named PE-Design: http://www.brothersewing.co.uk/en_GB/software And you can find some video tutorials here: http://www.brothersewing.co.uk/en_GB/pe-design-tutorial

To perform a clean 90° angle, just use a v-bit and make a channel along the bend line, as you would do for ACP. It will bend easier and will give you less corner radius. For better strength, you can leave a 1..1.2 mm for bending, but it's not necessary since you can also insert some Super Glue...

Look in the back of the printer, where you have the power connector. You have a sticker that says the working voltage. If it's from 100 to 240 volts then you don't need a converter.

Looks like high density extruded polystyrene...we cut it every day for letters. We usually use Datron - Triple flute end mill with toric cut for PU foam, using conventional milling.... and the finish is like the yellow letters. Even so, we don't consider it smooth edge. Hot wire cut is a lot...

Looks like the black channel driver has a problem. Could be an incorrect printhead voltage or a faulty electronic component (transistor, chip) on the main board. This kind of problem it's hard to repair remotely.

Hi Alan, start by changing the damper. Do this with the printer unplugged from the mains, and after you've discarded the remaining electricity in the printer (switch ON the power button for 2-3 seconds and then OFF). Make sure you have a clean cloth around, to protect the printhead area from...

Can I ask how did you perform the head soak?

Random small white dots can result from dust particles on media. But this happening only on reds...tough one. If your print has mostly reds, the probability is higher to encounter dust particles on reds. The color profile probably lays down too much ink on reds...combined with dust...

And that's correct. I won't argue with that. I used to think the same way too. But in reality, when I tried to eliminate the over-saturation by increasing the number of passes, the result was the opposite. The second thought would be..the color profiles I'm using are not good, even if there are...

Most probable you've checked F6 and F7, since are easy to spot. You have another one, F2 behind the black radiator, between the black capacitors. You have to measure all fuses with a multimeter, since they don't physically blow up. Of course, all of this must be done with the printer unpugged...

Those are good ideas except more passes means more ink, and you don't want that since there's too much ink already.