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only ones I've been to are the ISA shows in Vegas/Orlando. plenty of wraps from different brands and live demonstrations. www.signexpo.org

congrats! ...i guess there's still hope for me yet!

send your cut shape to the bottom. ...and I set cutcontour as a shape fill, not a stroke which cuts as a double-line on my plotter.

Butts & Trucking?

on the other hand, sometimes things can just be plain ridiculous.

Should have ended it with Walter spiking a handful of fulminated mercury.

yeah, i'd definitely go with the 8000. don't try to be a hero and wrap each tube in 1 piece :)

i could see making that work: if I was operating out of my garage, using the cheapest calendared vinyl I could find on ebay, not laminating, and had the ability to disappear & change my business name every 6 months to dodge failed product.

mine acts goofy whenever i've got too many fonts turned on in the system at once. Suitcase Fusion for the win.

interns are free :)

what's your test print look like? just spitballin', but I'd imagine that you've got some clogged/deflected nozzles and what you're getting is the overspray from ink not being fired straight-down at the material. static could be a potential culprit/accomplice here, as well. worst-case...

you'd know if it was dirty pinch rollers if you can see the stain occuring during the print, as there is a sizeable gap between the rollers and where the printhead starts laying-down ink. ...and pinch rollers never really get dirty unless you know you screwed up somehow.

I'd imagine that you could also mimic a pad printer, which is essentially an automated screen printer, using a series of screens & jigs. at that scale (size not quantity), however, I'd imagine that registration between colors would be tough on the front-end for each job. pad printers are...

stick with what you have. print/lam on clear, cut as undersized circles, and apply onto the cap. if you have the ability to print white, even better, but if you don't... then maybe purchase white bottlecaps and work into your design? or just design a cap logo that doesn't require a white...

not much use for the real-deal in the real world. you can most likely make it work with some teflon/anti-stick tape on the arm of one of those cheapo promotional plastic paper slitters. The kind that filled the drawers of our shop back from the 90's.

calendared vinyl. there ya go. you can save it, just trim-back the perimeter by 1/4" and use 1/2" cast vinyl strips to "frame" it, overlapping the print and sealing it to the panel.. dry apply, should be easy to do by-hand with just an xacto knife.

problem#1 right there. if you don't know what it is, then how did you know how to install it? if a grey adhesive vinyl, you should never wet apply. otherwise, unless it's calendared vinyl/laminate that is shrinking already, it could be any number of installer errors including surface...

I buy lint-free gloves and keep them handy near my laminator. Once I set my web and laminating my print I then stop the machine, put on my gloves, and "wax-on wax-off" as the laminator operates. Removes dust and helps keep my print from rippling as it passes into the nip because I gently push...

its technically a calendared vinyl but I used a cast overlaminate to aid in longevity... Arlon 3200 or 3M 8500 series' have both worked just fine for me. My initial samples that I put up on hard-to-stick places around the shop, over a year ago, are still going strong with Arlon 3420 calendared...