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or a Fellers' catalog :) bleeding cowboys sure does get around

media buckling due to high heat of the 26500 print process. have you tried running the print with tension on the media? either by-hand, or tying the media to the take-up roller? always fixes the problem for me.

I've also been known to have mark-read errors in the past, that I could not solve... could be dust on the eye of the sensor, or a glare from the material/laminate, I wish I knew. One day it just works like it should and the other day it wants to be a prick. Someday I'll figure it out, but I...

ummmm, NO maybe for cast block, but mortar lines?!? heck no, you'll blow that thing out. get a hammerdrill & security screws or rivots or use VHB tape & silicone.

+1 MacTac ROX

new suggestion, Arlon 6700 with 3200 over lam or 3M IJ8624 with 8500 overlam. 8000, however, is tough-stuff. I've got a sample on my wall, outside, that still hasn't curled after 6 months of summertime-lovin'.

cutter's function menu, select the correct crosshairs you're trying to register.

i personally think, you learn a LOT more than you think from "snarky" responses. ok, maybe there's a lot to say about "there's no dumb questions, only dumb answers" BUT sometimes a reminder of how "stupid" the question is, reminds you to think a little harder FOR YOURSELF before asking another...

you can do that? not bad. whenever I clip a photo, scale tools read the object as it's overall dimension (outside of clipped portion).

local hardware store or WalMart/HomeDepot should have varying levels of suction cup size with an S-hook attached to hang stuff. I do it all the time with coroplast signs. if you have something substantial, then increase the amount of suction cups used, and realize it is not a permanent fixture...

i input photos into illustrator, to which I have the CadTools plug-in from www.hotdoor.com. scale the photo to match the dimensions of your known object, and as long as the photo was taken squarely and straight-on, you're golden. (sometimes within a certain amount for error, to which I usually...

Oooooo. I get it now. you're one of those.... i guess i apologize. poll submitted. i'm going-back to work.

ahem. hipKritsezwhat? tough skin, bro. get sum. Life's more fun when you can respond to snarks in a gentlemanly way... and STILL make him look like a dick. want to avoid the snarks altogether? internet is not for you. enjoy a trade show, meet some people in real life. sign guys love sign...

i've got snark-fevah', and the only prescription ...is more threads on this topic, FOR ME TO POOP ON! :)

I've got like 5, but define "used". is it your intention to have a used printhead that still fires 100%? if so, then I have none.

one-off room i.d. sign, requires me to have a 12" x 12" piece of this laminate: "Chemetal - Old Cherry Frise" does anyone know of a source to purchase without having to get a whole sheet? ...or simply got a piece floating-around that I can purchase via paypal, case of beer, or whatever floats...

forgot to mention, that advice was for film-laminated perforated vinyl. edge-sealer won't really help perforated vinyl. the clear vinyl strips protects the trimmed perforated's "fingers" from being attacked by the elements over time, simply edge-sealing the exposed adhesive won't really...

anyone still looking for a TE? Hernandez is up for grabsies.

highly recommended, that any trimmed edges of perf be trimmed-back 1/4" and overlapped/sealed with 1/2" clear lamination tape. tile lines, as well. don't overlap perf, trim flush and overlay the seam with clear lamination tape. this extends the life of perforated vinyl a TON. I've got stuff...

$30k is a LOT, and may scare-away your client. sharpen your pencil, and stay away from p.s.f. pricing on such a large project. time + materials + overhead + profit, will still be way less than $15psf.