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love me some Randall Cobb

get dibond/alumacor/etc. in varying finishes. has a black core color, that is easily engraved by a router. engrave the numbers, route the shapes and BAM... your signs are finished when they come off the router table. ...heck, even give them a clear-coat if you like. otherwise, i'd just route...

soooo, basically you're replacing the whole panel? is it secured pretty good? if so, then slap a new panel right over the top of it! why bother drilling new holes into the marble, or try to salvage the existing ones, when you can easily drill into/bond to a nice metal panel that's already...

cast materials-only, i'd imagine, since it would handle the extreme temperatures a bit better than cheap vinyl. printed/laminated cast vinyl is the same as stock color cast. you'll be fine. i'll bet if you called your supplier, and mentioned what you're doing, they would have a solution.

no problem at all! flip the face in the sign cabinet, and install the reversed clear print with the sign-lit. ...we have a light table, but if I didn't then I'd be doing this all the time if I needed to. this second-surface application is really easy. you don't have to worry about bubbles...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGjbj2XZD2o

contracted without a bid? will they allow you to simply bill time & materials, or suddenly need a price now that you've started the work?

ink sitting on the shelf too long, maybe? I once had some mysterious overspray issues, resulting from an expired cartridge I swapped chips into and slammed into my printer. settled/separated ink turned out to be my final solution, after days of diagnosing other mechanical possibilities. start...

i don't know how hard-set you are on the spelling, but I do love foreign characters/accents when messing with phonetics:

if the strip appears clean the it is definitely the sensor. easy to try and fix without replacement. one gold screw holds it in, if you can get the printhead carriage harness opened-up, the gold screw is towards the center at the same level as the clear encoder strip that runs the length of the...

nah, just 100% silicone adhesive/caulk will do the trick. and you're overthinking it, no need to "seal the perimeter" or anything fancy. vhb tape tabs where you can fit em, and a bead of silicone through the center of the letter, not over-doing it as to have silicone spooging-out from behind...

aside from dual-layer printing, if I were to do cut vinyl then I would have used trans. red with a black outline and opaque beige.

VHB tape & silicone. don't waste your time & $$$ drilling it, not to mention potentially cracking the marble.

washed-out or too dim? for the latter, washed-out prints are NOT ACCEPTABLE. any printer worth their salt should know what illumination does to their product... and that is why our standard is to double-layer our print, not just the ink. double-striking ink looks dark during the day, and just...

you always peel the backing before you wet it.

it works, and it doesn't. takes forever to dry, and ruins the lam if you don't get it down quick. why ask, when you should be trying a sample?

painting the inside of the cabinet white would reflect just as much light as would a shiny metal backer panel... still not enough to eliminate hot spots. what about white plexi faces with dual-whitetrans.print layers?

happy bday!

warm vinyl, its just an odor. not harmful at all. smells like money to me.

there's a version of phototex available that has a stronger adhesive, intended for situations such as this.