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most likely expired ink. I've had that error before, swapped chips and I was fine.

A life-sized stand up of Justin Beiber & The Ultimate Twilight Saga Collector's Set

i'd shop moderately on the truck, firm to have an 8ft. bed (6ft. never cuts it). 4x8's will fit between the wheel-wells and 5x10's will sit atop them but should ride fine with the tailgate down. save a few bucks on the truck, and invest into a trailer to do the rest of the heavy-lifting that...

+1 to posted above. you've proly never noticed this much before because now the weather is more humid and you might not be allowing for the print to properly dry before lamination/cut

el wire is weak in anything but darkened rooms. any light source will wash it out. ...aaaand carries a half-life of only a few months. flexible led tube light options are available from any led supplier, and WAAAAAAY brighter. Sloan LED carrying my vote. I'd still say fabricated letter boxes...

letter boxes with combination of transluscent and opaque vinyl faces. if you want to get the returns to glow white, and the faces to glow another color (or not at all) then you'll have top upgrade to thick plexi with down-routed returns.

i use both, like I use primer & paint.

how about phototex/graphitex/walltex?

i assume you've brought this up to your vinyl supplier already? if so, i'm sure he replied "because you bought the CHEAP STUFF!"

i've been using the same cleaning cartridges for a couple of years now and flush about twice a year. ...but I cheat, and make my own acetone/butyl cellosolve homebrew and refill using trim cap syringes. +1 to a normal flush basically burning-up one of those small cartridges. whatever is...

Ultraflex Dreamscapes is my favorite. you can get a good deal if you ask for larger rolls to be shipped from manufacturer... PITA is that, my mimaki jv3 (or most printers, for this matter) won't hold a 300ft roll of wallpaper. stuff is thick. so I basically get 4 rolls of 150' for the price...

+1 to moving the plunge to a flat edge. we also route two passes, one leaves a skin at the base of the substrate to keep the shape from shifting during the heavy-routing. final pass to clean it up/cut it free.

same issue here. my only fix/workaround has been to lower the print temp to the lowest, and the cure temp to where you need it to be to completely dry the ink ....and then you need to pull on the media as it prints, or have enough already fed-through to tie to the take-up system so that it...

:goodpost:

stand by your product and service. monkeys just shaking a tree is all... "no haggling here. price is in the contract." "no $$$, no sign. we even have repo rights if not paid in 90days. short me $5? sure! I can get at least $25 in scrap metal from your sign ...i mean, our sign!"

curious. how do you know its the board? o, and welcome from just East of ya, WI.

i'm in again. will pm info

add horizontal (aluminum/steel) bars for support on the backside, or another post in the center. in all reality, however, its an MDO sign.... client should know its not made to last forever. put it up as-is and just inform your client of what might happen down the line unless they want to upgrade.

head height, static, "peach fuzz", or stale/seperated ink ... are the best-case scenarios. a dying printhead will also do this, unfortunately.

I spray SW formulas all the time. If our painter is swamped, we'll order it from them, otherwise the Mathews Paint online system has a conversion for SW colors. on that note, any paint supplier should be able to match your spec'd SW color.