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printer runtime is a cost of operation, as is flipping on the lights to your office, which you should have covered in a proper upcharge of materials/labor. you've got your numbers, and only you should be able to figure it out. look around for websites selling decals/vinyl/etc, if you need a...

nearest neighbor, and bottom line

parallel with body lines same applies when putting signage on a brick wall... mount it level but out of square with the mortar lines and your sign looks crooked.

i thought i did for a while, and started tracking it. turned out, my media was longer than my lam. 164' v 150'ish

spraying mathews for over a decade and we always clear-coat our finishes, matte/satin/gloss/etc., and have never had any issues with fading aside from anything you'd expect from 10yrs of exposure.

o man, that's horrible. hopefully someone else here is able to walk you through it, but that kind of repair can be sketchy and it still might not be certain of how big this can of worms really is. At this point, it just makes sense to get a tech out there and take the gremlin out of your...

back-sprayed plexi, with combination of paint mask and vinyl inlay.

lynda.com or youtube videos searching for "Illustrator CS4 Tutorial" otherwise, go take some classes at the local technical college if you need a personal trainer.

That'll do it. Gotta be a surgeon bro. That's why those techs charge $200/hr. buy some new ribbon cables while you're replacing the heads. Dampers too. Cheap parts that are a PITA to simply replace when you don't already have the printer broken-down.

I only cut paint mask and laminated reflective prints. 45 degree for everything else is just fine. ....assuming you test & dial-in the proper blade-depth and pressure

I'm also assuming that you know how to properly power-down your machine and discharge it of any power/static.

The stars are the errors for every channel it exists on. If you have he same setup I do, kkmmccyy (4 print heads, 2 channels each) and are throwing a ******-- 07 error, then either your cables are not connected properly on the KMC heads, or they're fried entirely, or your board connections are...

+1 oracal 210 is a calendared overlam. Still shouldn't matter. Works just great but for only 2yr instead of 7+. Although I have plenty of 210 out there that still looks great after 5years. Also noted, NEVER, laminate cast vinyl with cal overlam. Such a waste. The print is only as good as its...

I've done it all. Cast/cal printed/stock and even mixing and matching. Every different vinyl and combination will have different thicknesses and cut/weed ability. Test cuts and setting blade depth and pressure is key, before wasting your print on a hunch. Also, for small text, I only weed out...

Holy cow. Dealer musta done it himself with that crap they sell on ebay, ordering 4x the material necessary because he kept screwing it up... Or even took apart the vehicle to "do it right"

Definitely push-thru plexiglass letters. Depending on the scale, the strokes of those letters are too thin to put lighting inside the letter itself. Diffuser film on the backside, or at least backed with white lexan.

all, if not most, of the easy-tack materials have a matte finish thanks to the woven polyester pattern of the material. it doesn't really stretch, not anything like wrap vinyls, so you should be ok with lining-up tiles. I have yet to do anything with overlaps, but it does seem to stick to...

anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the error30 is poping up because you're doing something stupid in the printer's-eyes. you say you set the clock back, so the ink is not expired? I have a feeling that the printer doesn't believe you, and that it is registering your ink...

from the mimaki manual: "Error 30 Operation" "cause: An error occurs on the interface between the I/F board and the control board" "corrective measure: perform a proper operation"

this thread has been dead since 2011 and this guy hasn't posted since early 2k12d. safe to say, he's fixed his printer and moved on :(