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if it works, and works well, in bi-directional mode (I am assuming thats what you mean) then why not just print bidi? its faster anyway.

RESEARCH - Quicksilver (Regular) FEI - ERECTORS - DOT - World One (Regular *Oblique)

Interesting :thumb:

best practice (IMO) is print on translucent first surface, sign white acrylic, mirror print on clear second surface. maintains color density day and night.

CAPS appears to be Geometric 231 (Heavy), although I cant find a version with the break in the P - possible alternate? ALTERNATIVE: Futura ICG (Demi) CHICAGO: possibly Geometric 415 (Medium) TOGETHER: times bold italic?

Bitsumishi (Regular *Oblique)

If you learned anything, its that you could have found it in LESS TIME than it took to create this thread and reply to the posters.

yeah I figured he did a left side/right side center hinge

I always look for the tell-tale crosshatch on the adhesive side when I get in new rolls of RA film :thumb:

you shouldn't need to spear RA vinyl...it should just work its way out...thats whats its for..

odd that you cant work out the bubble on an RA film...

yes, when you stand back to visually confirm placement, you want to see how it flows with the body lines, not with the ground.

yeah not skirting it but INSIDE the 2 pieces like this kinda: http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?85442-Glueing-up-a-big-HDU-sign

way longer than campaign signs need to last edit: for flatbed printing, make sure they company uses opaque coroplast, or it will look like crap and be unreadable with sun behind it.. the only wholesale direct to coro company i know that uses opaque as a standard is signs365

Rosario (Bold)

I emailed you back saying X6 wont open it, but I meant X5 =) sorry bud, I tried

nice I always thought you had to log in first

you still can - in their signpro section (call for login/password) - herman italic is there

PM sent

comin up blank here