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wrapping the aluminum trim will increase your materials and double/triple your labor. quickest/easiest way, is to have all your perf pre-trimmed 1/2" smaller than window dimensions for a 1/4" perimeter to edge seal, and just fly through application. dry apply all-day-long, you've gotta be...

pm'd

same question I had for all the booths at the ISA show. Concensus was that it is 6months clean-removeability, adhesive hardens after that and is more difficult to remove. Graphic should hold up as long as you want, the woven polyester won't shrink/curl. I've had my sample print of phototex on...

+1. 15years signmaking experience. fml.

+1 phototex. I also use graphitex from General Formulations. great stuff. there's also a few other brands that carry the same wall graphic media. Optima Optisolve Wall Tex (advantage sign supply), MacTac DecoArt, JarHead, etc. just drop those names to whatever supplier you already have in...

just saw a pretty neat one on Main St. in Park Citiy, Utah. pretty high-profile location, considering its right in the center of all that is the Sundance Film Festival.

pictures, or it didn't happen. what vinyl/lam?

tattle-tale

currently using Fossil here, as well.

Pask Mask from Fellers, use it all the time without issue using Rtape transfer tape. Even the low tack stuff sticks.

offset path rather than convert strokes to outlines.... or if you do convert strokes, then just ungroup and add them all together into one shape. also, setting a cut path using a stroke swatch rather than an object fill may result in being read as two paths.

pretty sweet! wow, seems like only yesterday that I was watching the filming of the last Transformers in Chicago.

welcome from wi. :thumb: p.s. I'd be pissed if I paid a couple hundred bucks for people to NOT be able to read my phone #. upsell your layout skills, and kick it to the left/right when/if you replicate.

+1 I also sometimes laminate the IJ35c-10 with a cast film like 8519 to give the vinyl a bit longer life expectancy. cheap is cheap. educate your clients on the difference between $X and $XX. They still might go with the cheaper option, but at least it was their own trigger-finger that shot...

filling up your lines through the dampers isn't enough. your head is still "vapor locked" at that point. before trying to pull on the lines with a syringe, simply run a fillupink with the back cap off the machine so you can watch your pumps and drain lines at work. what happens?

:covereyes:

custom? looks like something that can just be made via metal shop, and track down a supplier for those finials.

Without seeing a picture, I can only assume that the price of new acrylic face will most likely be less than your shop rate to remove the old. No matter what tool/method you use.

3M IJ3650-114 prints just fine on my hp26500. I've also been known to print on clear laminate with my JV3-160 when I need to add prints to unprintable vinyl.

you mean for a flag-mounted doorway sign?