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check your values in preflight. substitute color if you don't want to change your file. C50 Y100 +/- should be your best shot.

also, this stuff is really cool for dimensional lettering. gives a really neat effect to routed Sintra lettering with metallic laminates (or simply laminated with metallic vinyls).

I've played with this before, really cool. Epoxies etc. will actually send you free samples of their doming epoxies if you want to try it out. UV curable, self-drying, rigid or flexible... they've got it all. IF you over-resin, and it goes past the decal... just take an Xacto and trim it off...

you're new boss sounds like a lucky guy! congrats!

never thought of the reasoning behind it, but I'm glad for these posts explaining why. Luckily for me, I had always just simply screenshot the artwork and sent it to them as the "proof" because that's always been my way to keep the file size down and still appear like I was putting an effort...

+1 to new caps. The new ones actually have a plastic rivot that keeps the screen from being removable. Worth the $$$ knowing that you'll never have to worry about your screens someday coming loose and dinging a print head.

anyone have a good recommendation for a rigid/semi-rigid, printable, material/laminate (latex or solvent) with permanent non-curling adhesion to a wooden door? trying to mimic a plexiglass paper-insert sign we currently do for a client but they want an option to have a permanent decal instead...

i'd be printing or screen printing this onto green vinyl

buckling of the print as it feeds through the rollers? when I laminate long runs, I actually put on a pair of white gloves and "wax-on, wax-off" motion from center-out to keep the material perfectly flat.... otherwise, if left unattended, I sometimes get buckling if my feed is slightly...

i'm a big fan of print/cut when it comes to dual colored lettering ...you're still doubling your materials (print/lam) but you minimize your labor when it comes to layering the vinyl.

getting paid for your client getting laid? sounds like prostitution to me.

+1 for the same reasons stated.

:roflmao:

interesting, my JV3 160 stays in Remote mode after it completes printing. might just be a 130-thing, or a rip-software thing (doubtful), but i'll bet there's a setting that you can change within the printer's menus.

+1 to just getting into bed with a merchant member closest to ya. whatever you end up going with, you're guaranteed to receive quick support and supplies to keep your new toy running the way it should for a long time to come. ...that's what I did :)

i think that's what he's doing, but forgets that the outer perimeter of his original image will not generate a tile overlap that he wants to wrap around the sides. that's why he's gotta setup by treating the outer returns of his canvas/frame as a tile. For example: ...and only print the 3...

+1 draw shape and offset path you can also obtain the same effect by adding a stroke to the original shape, outlining it, and then deleting one of the two shapes created by the stroke. simple vectorization, but you're not alone. I have to train every designer that comes through our shop that...

tile overlaps are only created by content that exists... enlarge your canvas to include the outer-perimeter returns of your frame in your dimensions. can be done in your rip. just enlarge your original image and set the first/last tiles to the return dimension(thickness) of your...

I've been the the E.R. three times in my 15years at the shop, all result from cutting blades and straight-edges. Damn things sure know how to jump when you're in a rush! ...and that's not counting all of the close calls along the way that were fixable with a band-aid. (more like papertowel and...

:goodpost: +1 additional video here, showing a crew of workers repositioning the sign that fell and crushed this family... giving you a sense of how big this thing really was, which is actually a 6x10ft. aluminum cabinet flight display with LCD monitors. It may as well have been a small car...