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no diagrams that I know of, but each pump operates 2 channels: top pump runs the KM bottom pump runs the CY rest is just making sure you have in/out correct.

nah, alignment shouldn't be a $150/hr job. Just get lots of paper to burn through. I use the backing of my laminate when I need some in a pinch. my post from another jv3 thread:

black ink? you're in luck! use your waste bottle and fill the cartridge with a syringe! (*disclaimer, has been successful on jv3 solvent printer... not sure about ecosol inks whatsoever)

warrantied calendared vinyl? hmmm guess I've just gotten used to not using anything but cast materials for products I intend to last.

pics of banding or links to other threads or it didn't happen. my money's on feed comp not being the solution here. regardless, you want the head i.d's in the machine, for sure. you'll quickly notice the difference when you go to print your alignment patterns.... wrong head i.d. = fuzzy lines...

sure, no problem Liquid Laminate particularly, ClearStar(roll) or FrogJuice (spray)

can o' worms for sure. you've got steel upright and power-connection, so not complete loss. i'm sure a new cabinet will definitely be less$$$ than re-vamping the existing, and WAY less than a new sign altogether.

why can't you print to the edge with IJ40 on a solvent? i print to the edge with everything, when/if i need to.

honestly, i'd rather take a shot with 3rd party latex than 3rd party solvent, just simply based on the fact that you're risk is a set of $100 printheads rather than $1000 printheads. currently, I'm sticking to OEM on my brand-new 26500 a year or two from now, I will most likely reconsider when...

I like logical seek. I think the printer is actually faster, especially when there's a lot of white spa e involved.

...welcome to signs101!

by thin, i bet you mean that you're trying to apply directly after printing and the material is still soft from being saturated with ink. typically, you'd want to let dry for a day before you do anything. --------------------------------- laminate will add thickness to your print, and protect...

never been a fan of "full field" diamond plating... I like to use it as more of a trim/detailing item, even if printed as a texture. +1 to Jill's layout being awesome for a "quickie"

also noted, that if you don't like the "clackity clackity", replace your OEM ink pumps (but keep them handy, in case you need them someday... they're still good) with the Triangle 3rd party ink pumps from Fellers (or whomever). They run so quiet, that I thought I had installed them wrong the...

correction, it's called LOGICALseek your printer will only plot over areas it intends to print, and then rests over the capping station & forwards material where there's white space. clackity clackity, while the ink pumps refresh the heads. you can turn this off, if you like, in the Print...

its not the self cleaning that you're looking for. without the manual in front of me I can't say the proper term, but its somewhere along the lines of "content-aware" printing "smart printing"... i'll add to this thread when i get in the shop in the a.m. it would be in the printer configuration...

snap-line and a 3ft metal ruler is all I use. I also modify my ruler, wrapping the ends with masking tape that I reverse-on itself (sticky side out) so that my guide doesn't slip while I'm traveling with the blade.

oh yeah, most definitely. if the wallpaper is not permanent, then there are other things you can do to not cut-through the 2nd layer into the wall. painter's fine line tape is nice to pre-apply to the wall, to use as a "cutting mat". same trick people use on vehicle wraps. I have yet to come...

are you talking about a tape-hinge that sticks to the back but drops your print aligned on the face?

this isn't vehicle wrapping. you... cut the wall :) just don't go crazy by cutting THROUGH the wall. You'll get a feel for the pressure needed to cut through two layers of wallpaper, so that you'll usually just end up scoring the paint job that is being covered-up by your wallpaper anyways.