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I've always found it easier to apply adhesive back to a substrate than non adhesive to an adhesive substrate.

Look under Merchant members his contact info is there.

Not sure why you're using poly and laminating, I would think a standard vinyl w/laminate would work better. Have you changed the laminate you use? Are you prepping the panels different? I would try a matched vinyl/laminate.

Paper is usually cheaper. Plus there are some nice finishes available. I have some adhesive back satin paper that is really nice for temporary displays. But I have used vinyl without laminate too.

Contact Bigfish, a merchant member who if he doesn't have it will direct you to someone who does.

Seems like I would've noticed this...but I have never really paid attention to what the perforated window graphics look like from the inside. I have a client who has an interior trophy case with a glass front and back. The back is seen from inside an office. They want to give the office more...

That symbol is also associated with Ireland, my first thought was you were and Irish or Irish American company. Not much about it suggests signs.

Inside I'd probably use gatorfoam, if it needs an edge treatment I'd add some plastic trim/molding.Then it would be possible to hang using cleats with VHB & adhesive, with maybe a few screws for insurance

Oh, for the days when this was the big subject for debate! Back when I tried all the tricks. When I tried screws I used eye screws so I had a little handle to tighten. Seemed to slow it down but not completely. I have a feeling the lids are thinner like you said which could interfere. Me, I...

Wow, that is weird. Does have a similar look to the Avery problems, but they looked "moldier" than that.I'm with the doors being the source of the issue.

I'd look at HP Designjets. Been around a long time and are pretty foolproof.

Yea, not exactly up on all that stuff, though I know I should be. And it would vary widely depending on the size pf the shop and location. Signs Of The Times does an industry wide survey every year that has those kinds of numbers broken down by size of shop.

You can make a sub frame from 1"x1" aluminum tube which can be cut assembled using simple hand tools. It is available from most decent sign suppliers and there are corners and tees to make assembly simple. The frame is a little more problematic without a sheet metal bender. You can buy premade...

I was looking for something very similar a few weeks ago, no luck. I quoted using aluminum angle.

I was just trying to be ya know...creative Only thing I'd change now is spell is SIGNZ.

Can you tell me what to do with a DC4 that has never worked right.

Top right. Loose the dot over the i

top

I use Gerber (3M) Flourescent vinyl. A primer is used when you are printing on anything other than white, so your color foil comes out correct. Usually the primer coat is white. So when I'm printing on colored vinyl I will select primer on for all the colors except black, which I print a a...

In some of those photos the vinyl looks pockmarked, may just be the vinyl. I use Gerber fluorescents when printing, but it can still be tricky. I usually do a prime coat for everything except black, which I do a double hit on. Fred's suggestion of printing the Fluoro is a good idea.