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As far as my knowledge goes, you first send the cease and desist letter and if it's not taken down, that's when the lawyers get involved. Most of the time it's not going to be worth your time but if you really want to prove a point, it will cost you.

As soon as you create an original design, you have the copyright. All you have to prove is that you created it first.

Your proof should never be editable or useful in anyway. When I used to proof signs I would shrink everything down to fit on an 8.5"x11" sheet, rasterize all vectors to 72dpi and save the file as a non-editable PDF. This way if they try to blow it up to the correct size, it will look horrible...

Usually the first thing I do in this situation is, unplug the machine and hit the power button a couple times to discharge any residual power. Take the back platen off and the main board will be to your left from the back of the machine. Take the main board memory out (its' just like regular...

We get this scam all the time and we aren't even a print shop! Anytime a church contacts you via email about a large quantity of banners, it's a scam. My rule is, if they don't ask for a discount for Jesus, they aren't legit. Every church I have done work for in the past asks for a special...

How did it feel when you took the damper off and back on? If there was no friction and it just sort of slid on and off easily, you may have a worn out o-ring on the bottom of the damper. In this case, I would change the damper and cap top and that should fix the issue. Double check that the...

Most likely a bad head here. When i head starts to fail naturally, it has a harder time firing the smaller dots. The test print uses the biggest dots so it can look like it is fine until you try to print high quality. Print a job on high resolution variable dot settings and then the same file...

I'm not sure I have ever heard of or seen air release clear. It would probably show the pattern of the adhesive through the vinyl. Your best bet is probably cast clear and wet apply.

The only time I have seen a head not fire at all is if the fuse is blown, it's completely clogged or there isn't any ink in the system to begin with. Usually you can get something to fire even if you have some major problem. With a bad head, more times than not it will not give you an error. The...

Also, to get into service mode most tech manuals are wrong on the buttons to push. Try this one: Front power off main back power on Push in order - down, right, left, up, right, down, left Then push and hold left, down, up and turn front power on This all needs to be done in about 5 seconds.

Usually when I run into this issue, running the encoder setup and calibration in service mode and then the environmental match in user mode does the trick. Rarely it can be the servo board as well.

I guess you could consider that printing an extra copy for your show room could be considered part of your portfolio which falls under the idea of fair use. But then again, if a lawyer comes in and tells you to take it down, there isn't much in it for you to fight it.

How did you test the fuse? If there is no air in the ink lines, the dampers are about half full and you can see ink coming out of the waste tank when you run a cleaning cycle, it has to be the fuse unless you blew all of the transistors which is basically impossible.

As someone who works on these printers in the field and sells used ones, you can't go wrong with: Roland SP and VP Series are great - I do not recommend the XC series only because repairs cost much more due to it having 6 heads and they are on the older side now but people seem to love them so...

You have to use a special vinyl that is coated to be able to receive aqueous inks. Usually the manufacturer has a vinyl listed on their website that you can use. The clear coat can extend the life of the decal but is not optimal for long term. It sounds like you have more experience with that...

When you have done the all of the alignments, auto is just as accurate as manual. Manual takes more time to dial in at first. Some machines use multiple crop marks to allow for better accuracy on longer runs (not just 4 but more along the sides to check for skewing etc.). Overall auto is easier...

Both of those printers use aqueous inks and will not last outdoors. It sounds like you are on a budget so i would look for a used Roland SP300V printer/cutter or a used Mutoh ValueJet in combination with your cutter to do contour cuts. You can find these printers for a good price usually and...

You probably want to start a new thread in the Mimaki forum. When replacing the manifold, make sure to tighten the screws down in a rotating pattern almost like replacing a spare tire. I usually make 3 to 4 rotations to make sure the manifold slowly moves down and tightens onto the head nice...

That's one of the dirtiest print head areas I have ever seen. There could be ink on the head cables but usually that wouldn't affect only one channel. The first thing you need to due is use air duster to clean the slider board and cable terminals. Then take the dampers off and check the manifold...

It's worth more in scrap metal than in perfect working condition. Epson no longer makes heads for this machine and Roland is out of stock. The only place we can get them is Mutoh and they are $700-$800 (more than the machine is worth). The machine was never meant to run solvent inks to begin...