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Crooked head after installation is a rookie mistake. I wouldn't charge my customers for a mistake like that.

Most likely not the head but make sure to take the damper off and check that the manifold isn't broken. Use a bright flash light to check as it can be hard to see a crack on the black manifold. Are you set up for CMYK X 2 or 6 Color? If it's CMYK X 2 I am leaning more towards a defective...

Have you run the print feed calibration yet? A couple nozzles out might be causing the issue but I would not rule out the print feed calibration. You will need a ruler that measures up to 500mm and a loupe or magnifying glass to get an accurate adjustment. Check out the user manual and look for...

How old is the print head? Did you change the valve assembly and o-ring(claw type part on top of the damper)? Are you using cartridges or bulk ink? Are both cyan channels dropping out or just one?

We sell a good after market take-up system for the Rolands. Feel free to PM me for a quote. But like RobertM said, if you can afford the Mutoh, get it. It's faster, better quality, easier to maintain, has fewer service calls per year on average, and the take-up system is by far the best in the...

+1 Although I have never seen such a clean skip in the print when the encoder disc goes. Usually it is kind of fuzzy. Can't think of anything else it could be though.

It's possible that the manifold is broken. The manifold is where the damper connects to the head. Sometimes the nipple breaks and causes air to get into the system which causes the ink to now flow. Use a bright flash light to check the manifold and also check inside the bottom of the damper for...

There is a bracket that the main board connects to which makes it easier to take out. Even though the cables are mostly labeled and color coded, take a picture before you take it out so that you don't miss something when putting it back in. The fuse is located near the edge of the board close to...

You probably have a blown head fuse on the main board. You can try to solder one on yourself but I would recommend having a professional do it for you if you are uncomfortable. We have used MacMedia.com before with good results but are not affiliated with them.

Feel free to give us a call. We can send samples and answer any questions you may have. 303-733-6671

Make a file each way and print it to see for yourself. Personally, I believe if you are printing in CMYK you should be designing in CMYK. But since I do not run a printer daily and do not have to deal with customers wanting specific colors etc., you will find that many people have different...

If the pump is not clogged and there is no air in the ink lines, I would start with a capping station. It sounds like you can get the black to come back a little bit so I don't think it's electrical. Also, you could have issues with the bulk system. I would call the manufacturer and see if they...

A very significant amount of issues we deal with at Solventinkjet.com is people wait until consumable parts show symptoms of failing before replacing them. While this saves money in the short term, it reduces the life of your head in the long term. If I were running my own print shop, cap tops...

We stock the OEM Mutoh rollers for $11 each. Here is a link if you need to order some: Mutoh Pinch Rollers

They certainly can but to protect yourself, require them to provide a copy of their tax exemption certificate. Getting just their tax exempt number will not cut it in an audit. They usually need to see a copy of the actual certificate.

Never "bridge" a fuse with anything other than another fuse! Don't do anything until the new fuse is in. Be prepared for a fried head and/or transistor on the main board. +1 On checking all of the cables and connections for shorts in the system. The fuse blew for a reason.

Print Cut Alignment: I would run the "encoder calibration" and "encoder setup" functions in the service mode first and then run the "environmental match" function in the user mode. Then run the automatic print cut alignment and then fine tune it with the manual print cut alignment(scale you...

It's a very common problem. You can replace the round screws with flat top ones and that has always seemed to work for me.

+1 Definitely an alignment issue

Rasterlink is trying to read a file that tells it how to display the editing window but it is either corrupt or missing. The only way I have ever been able to fix this is by re-installing the software. I have a hunch that you could try using the file from someone else's software that is working...