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A head soak should help a lot. It does seem like your cap top, pump and/or wiper is not working properly. Unfortunately, if a head soak and new maintenance parts don't help, it's time for a new head. As a last resort you can try flushing the head but make sure you are willing accept the fact...

+1! Thanks for the disclaimer

Keep on printing until it stops you. When it runs out, it will tell you and you just put the new one in. It will continue printing. Also, when you turn the machine on and it starts beeping, hit the cancel button and the beeping should stop.

If you are doing a lot of layered decals, a light table can help you see the alignment better. +1 One Registration Marks

Make sure that when you replaced the encoder sensor that it is straddling the encoder strip. It can be hard to tell if the strip popped out of the sensor because it is clear. Get a bright flashlight and double check. The encoder strip wouldn't cause this issue as the error only occurs when the...

I am assuming that the machine initializes but doesn't go to measure the material after you put the lever down? In that case I would say your lever sensor is not working. If the printer doesn't know that the pinch rollers are down, it doesn't ask for media type. You can get into the service mode...

6 years and only 500 million fires is rare. You may already know this but, there is a multiplier you have to take into account when you look at the service report and print head fires. I am willing to bet you are actually at 5 billion. We sell the Roland print heads on our site and offer free...

I am leaning more toward a head issue. Here is why: Your test print is near perfect with a few deflections but not enough to cause over-spray. The test print also uses the larger size dots which are easier for the print head to fire. When you printed in a medium resolution, I am willing to bet...

I am thinking they used something like this: Engravable Glow in the Dark Material

Without white ink, I don't think you will get the results you are looking for. You will be surprised at how "see through" ink is without a white backer, especially if you are applying the decal to a window or other clear surface. I usually recommend printing on white and contour cutting as an...

If you are comfortable running the Mutoh I would look at the 1324 and 1624. The interface is pretty much the same but the print head technology is newer and faster. I have one customer who has two of the 1624s and I have only been out on a service call twice in 3 years. Mostly just maintenance...

Look for a profile in your RIP that is non-variable dot and print a sample cyan square. Usually a non-variable dot profile will be low resolution and fast speed but not always. If it prints a pretty good solid square, it is most likely time to change the cyan head. If it still prints fuzzy, I...

Other than the fact that different medias have different white points, ink absorption and different finishes (gloss, matte, luster, satin etc) Profiles that come with your RIP or that you download off manufacturer's websites are made in different environments, using different software/equipment...

Error 250 means there may be a bad parameter. Although I am an advocate for end users fixing their machines, it may be time to call in a tech to configure your board. They will be able to get the proper parameters for your machine and make sure the board is working properly. The maintenance...

Those look like head strikes to me. Make sure you are using the media clamps on each end of the material. They are the flat metal pieces that slide along the platen. If they are not present on your machine I would recommend getting some. If you are using think material, change the head height to...

You have to push and hold the up and down button to be able to get into the mode that will allow you to retrieve the parameters from the old board. Pushing remote at boot brings you into the firmware update mode and will get confused when you try to retrieve the parameters in the wrong mode...

Check your cut protection strip. Usually hopping is from the cut strip having a groove cut into it through out the years. It could be the holder is bad but less likely.

In older Rolands (DX2/CJ and SC 500) there was a big problem with the cap top sponges swelling and wicking the ink through. In newer models it's not as much of a problem but I have seen it happen at least once. Check for stray fibers or swelling. It should be pretty easy to spot a problem. Also...

Most likely you have a bad cap top or maintenance station. The black is on the edge of the print head which means it is going to be one of the first colors to go when the cap top fails. Even if the maintenance station pulled all the other colors down properly doesn't mean it is working 100%...

If the color of the lines changed, the head board is definitely suspect. It could be a bad cable as well. You might want to check out macmedia.com They can diagnose and fix boards. Since the color changed when you did a data swap, the problem is the signal going to the head and not the head...