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o man that blows. only experience i can lend is that i once moved my printer and the cord yanked out of the firewire port.... so badly that i bend the metal connector components and upon reconnection, my rip couldn't recognize my printer. was paranoid that i'd need a new firewire board, as...

nice job! great partial wrap! might just be me trying to pick at something, or being keen on logos for door panels, but I'da swapped placement of logo/indian.

+1 lexan if you want a final solution for permanence in your back pocket. on the other hand, most laminated decals will last as long as the ink does.

Happy thanksgiving to you all! GO PACKERS!

el oh el talk to a beer or soda distributor. it'll be FREE of they can put their logo on it! (and if you spend thousands of dollars with them every year)

googled vector Jesus Christ, and this turned up: no charge

i get this problem occasionally, just flatten transparencies in illustrator and make sure to save your output to high resolution transparency settings. otherwise, take it a step further and bring into photoshop to flatten.

i'm in no rush, CS3 works just fine here at the shop and I have yet to have a client send me CS5 files (even though I have it on my laptop, thanks to student discount software!)

printer - eyeOne + Onyx10 EZ PZ

bring a heat gun to post heat the perimeter, if anything, but the only isues i've ever had with cold weather installs came at sub-freezing temperatures, where my sheet of digital print would snap apart in my hands when a strong wind came thru... of which I still managed to piece back together to...

+1 to steamer, or a heat gun, and pick at it. never gonna be easy in this weather, but heat is the only way to make it just a bit easier

3551RA isn't designed for rivots. I will only use the stuff (and highly recommend for) on simple curved/flat surfaces. Its a high performance calendared but still a calendared nonetheless. If you want oracal, go with the 3951, otherwise 3m 180C(v3).

sounds like a client i'd love to work with... at my regular price. don't give them any artwork until you get down payment.

i've done this as well, now I score the plastic with a register mark and keep a manual log of my head ranks when I replace my heads... just in case. un-retrievable once you've changed the head rank # on your printer, but the existing head rank that's programmed in should work just fine...

greetings from SE wisconsin! Go to a signage/graphics convention and see everything available, first-hand. Otherwise, use the search function or try this link

my cure for wrinkles is a two-step process: 1) set a proper "web" 2) using cotton gloves, I wipe my print from center>outward left/right as the laminator operates. Removes any random debris AND helps keep the "flow" of your sheet moving outward as it travels into the rollers. I also laminate...

static has alwalys been a bogus reason for overspray.... as if it WAS an issue, wouldn't ALL the heads be having the same problems? head might be on its last legs, but first try doing a long nozzle wash followed by a head wash. also scrub the sides of the printhead with foam swabs/cleaning...

+1 rapidtac. ...or less soap. i've also been known to use a little isopropyl in my mix. helps "flash dry" so to speak. wet applies great and sticks just as hard as a dry application.

if you can do it with wood, you can do it with HDU. plenty of tooth. should be fine. highly recommend using a higher densitiy. you save $$$ with the lighter stuff, but the finished edges always disappoint.

o'man could i use a trip out west.