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I have generally found that vinyl does adhere very well to aluminum tanks, but that sounds pretty unusual. Maybe a warmer temperature will help.

What kind of vinyl? How was the surface prepped?

I use this one on 3mm to 4mm aluminum composite all the time, though I use a different insert, so I can keep a sharp one for other things.

Print on adhesive vinyl, then stick to the coroplast. That machine is not designed for direct-to-substrate printing, you are risking quite a lot of $$ damage. Or you could outsource them to someone with a flatbed printer and just mark them up and be done with it.

Appears to be something in the PEIGNOT family...

Material choice is usually dictated by need. What kind of sign, how is it being used, how long, etc... When in doubt, a nice cast gloss usually does the job.

:thumb: same here. If you don't have an optically clear lam, then you are better off with none at all. Or you could just use plain vinyl since you won't be able to see through it with 210 anyway :wink:

Ahh.. Thank you. I thought something about the post had changed. Wasn't paying enough attention to see it was just a similar duplicate.

3M 7125 is cast NON-translucent. Generally not for use on translucent faces, unless it's just black. 3M 3630 is cast Translucent. This is the correct product to use. Lamination not needed, even with your cold weather.

Similar to Diana Script (Connected)

Same here, nearly perfect everytime...!

Made by these people, you'll need to find a distributor. http://www.slaterironworks.com/SlaterPostClip.html

Realized this thread was dragged back up, but here you go anyways..... Yes, it is possible. I have done it with out VP-540. First you will need several brand new blades, I recommend the ones from Clean Cut. They are affordable and work very well. You'll need to change out blades fairly...

Recommend using plenty of Primer94 if you go with the 3M, but NOT with the Oracal...

10mm coroplast if you don't mind the ridges/texture

:thumb: All kinds of specialty materials to do all that work, and the 15" plotter to go with it can cut standard vinyl while the EDGE is printing. Also this setup can be purchased for very reasonable prices, since so many are going full digital these days.... EDIT: Wrap work is...

Reminds me of this display that my customer bought and I had to match panels for. Looks similar, though might be a different size.... http://www.aceexhibits.com/8ft-curved-display-fabric-end-cap-graphic-center-panels.html

Budget sign: 10mm coro Longer term option: 6mm poly metal Alumalite is long lasting too, but dents easily when being hauled around. Sometimes good ol fashioned sealed/painted MDO is the best bet for ruggedness.

We would be right around that mark, esp if all spread out. Maybe a little less if all done at once.

Just a though, might not pan out in practice... but try putting the Capital "C" right inside that negative space in the countertop, and then make the slants match it. The C inside a sort of C shape will possibly help reinforce the alliterative nature of the name.