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I'm trying to find the font (or at least the name) of the font the National Park Service used on the Bryce Canyon entrance sign. It looks like an engineering font with curved stems. Thanks!

Job it out. This requires a combination of screen printing, acid (or alkaline) etching, and painting. It doesn't sound like you have any experience with (or equipment for) these processes, which will guarantee that you'll lose your shirt trying to produce them. So quote them on the marked-up...

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I'm having a hard time putting into words how much this kind of thinking creeps me out. Maybe for starters, have a little integrity and the respect will follow. If you don't value your work ( and it sounds like you don't ) no one else will. Read U.S. copyright law so you can understand what's...

I've cut a ton of coextruded HDPE. Best results were with a 1/4" straight double flute. With materials prone to melting, I've had good luck with a single straight flute. It effectively reduces your tool rpm by half. A dull bit will leave "feathers" too. I've always been disappointed with...

Check your main board power supply. On revision E boards and higher, it should be 5.15v Low voltage will make it stall constantly.

Prison, I hear. Seriously (and not surprisingly) http://www.customlicenseplates.com/ Happy New Year!

Maybe not... 2. Restrictions on Use. Unless you have received prior written authorization from Google (or, as applicable, from the provider of particular Content), you must not: (a) copy, translate, modify, or make derivative works of the Content or any part thereof; I'd suggest using map...

I need to fab several "T" shaped aluminum angle brackets to hold some Dibond sign panels. Has anyone used the Lord 2 part adhesive that is supposed to be as strong or stronger than welding? I don't have room to set up a welding station and jobbing it means driving 65 miles each way. It'd be...

"been a blast but still learning now 10 months into it" LOL! I'm 480 months into it and still learning. That's why I love this business! To everyone migrating from publication or web design keep in mind that a beautiful page layout or site design rarely makes a good sign. First and...

Any of the multi purpose screen printing inks will work. Mask it with 3 mil, using a hair dryer and a soft rubber roller to apply it. Apply the ink with a short nap roller, don't over work it, you want it to cover in as few passes as possible. If you start working it the ink will lift. Don't...

Print it on your usual ps vinyl and apply to the back side. Works best with double sided material.

Frank who?

Filling a 12 cubic inch gap with Gorilla Glue while the sign is on the wall sounds like trouble to me. Given the depth of the void behind it, caulking will shrink a little and you'll have a dip there, maybe the 50/50 rule applies (50 ft/ 50 mph) and it'll be good enough. I still think gluing in...

Give them the choice. The budget option would be to bill them for the banner and the layout for the T's and flyers but make it clear that it's a one time use. The design remains your property. If the event catches on and turns into an annual event they can buy additional reproduction rights from...

Take the screws out, shove the panels together and put the screws back in. Thought about that, could be the easiest, but you have to fill screw holes and more than likely touch up the building paint. And when I hang an HDU sign, the screws are there to hold it til the adhesive cures. If...

Umm, denatured alcohol is not going to remove screen printing ink and it's not likely to remove Krylon either, though unlimited amounts of elbow grease can probably remove anything. As Gino says, trying to strip the paint with solvents in a public space is not a good idea. Aside from the...

I have to laugh... but, yes, there is such a thing as screen printed sign faces. Especially if there's more than 10 of them. Don't bother trying to strip it, you'll spend more on chemicals than the face is worth. Any screen ink made for acrylic or polycarb is very aggressive and crosslinks...

Caulk will shrink and may also have a different surface appearance, so you'd still see a seam. How about cutting a 1/4" slice of 2" HDU and Gorilla Glue it in. Or epoxy if you're in a hurry. A few coats of filling primer on top and you're good to go.

I'd go with the can-o-foam The problem with bondo is having to hang around until it's reached the proper point in the cure cycle. Too soon and you can't shape it, wait too long and it's far harder than the HDU, making it a bear to sand evenly. I'd go with what was posted earlier, the low...