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Nice, glad it worked out!

No idea. The only locks it has are for the up position, which are the two little chrome tabs that you flip over. I wonder if it's something hung up on the inside of the cover? I can look more closely at mine later...

You're looking to install CM4? Here is the link: https://www.graphtecamerica.com/cutting-master-4

Before I had a printer and was working with cut-vinyl, I would add registration marks to the artwork, expand their shape, then cut them out with the vinyl design. The cutter read them fine most of the time. So in your example above, the registration marks would be cut out of the vinyl color...

Are you feeding off the rolls, or are you just running sheets through? I find it much harder to run sheets through than by using rolls. You don't get the proper tension on the vinyl and laminate, which causes things like that to happen, in my experience. All that said, that looks much too...

I wonder if https://substance.com/products/ultracurve-660lse would be worth a try. Or https://substance.com/products/ultracurve-x1 if you need air egress adhesive.

We have a few of these. They work just fine - better if you attached them to the table. I like that they are closer to the table than some homemade versions Ive seen. https://uscutter.com/APPRoller-Tape-Application-Roller/

Time to consider saying no. It's liberating!

In illustrator, the easiest way to move a specified distance is to ctrl+shift+M (Object > Transform > Move). If you're trying to align to another object without moving the cutout, this is called aligning to a key object. Align or distribute relative to a key object Select the objects to align...

Its the cover for the ink mark sensor. It is just held on with double sided tape along the edges. It needs to be clear, so if yours is covered in ink or otherwise, you'll need to replace it. You can just cut one from a piece of clear plastic. Attached is the shape in vector form.

355TH here. Works great.

How large are the sheets? What registration marks are you using?

That's actually not bad. With the assembly being so big, it might enable more positioning flexibility - as opposed to having the slitter blade mounted right on a bar that must be mounted in the perfect position.

I've looked into adding this to our GFP as well. Attached are a bunch of options I found. In the end they are all contingent on having a place to mount the bar on the laminator that is positioned correctly.

I'll second the above. We use it all the time without any problems.

Yes, that's how I do nearly everything that needs a jig right now. Put paper/vinyl on bed, set Z height, print outline of item. Place item, reset Z height, print artwork on item. Given you have a jig already made, perhaps you could print the outline of the jig on paper/vinyl, and situate the...

I'm running Epson, but use a ton of the 2755 in both 25.5" (sliced down) and 54". Most of the 54" is printed full width with no color variation from side to side. I've printed small amounts of 30" wide ultracurve and 440 without issue as well. That may not be overly helpful, save for the fast...

.9 blades - For regular vinyl up to 8-10 mil, I'll use China 45 .9mm blades and a plastic tip holder. 1.5 blades - For magnet, I only use 60 from clean cut with a red top brass tip holder. The graphtec blades are fine too, but the price is too high. I tried some of the chinese 60 degree blades...

Good for you. I was trying to get him to come down on price a bit more, as it would have been a second FCX for me and didn't really need it. He did seem like a very nice guy. I built a box around my vacuum and it helped a lot but you have to watch temps. They are certainly slower than roll...

Did you happen to buy the one that was just on eBay for ~$6500? It won't detect media size. You'll set your XY origin by moving the blade to a point and pressing the origin key on the cutter. If you're only using 12" of the bed, I'd recommend covering the rest of the bed with another piece of...