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When I print from Photoshop using a custom icc profile (supplied by the vendor) the image is coming out incredibly dull and desaturated. (OSX 12.12, Pshop CC) I dont always print from Photoshop so I can't pinpoint exactly when this started happening, but when I do I always use the same process...

Meaning you run a kiss cut over the same path multiple times? Curious how you do this, if it means I can impose the job in the RIP instead of having to do it manually Im all about it. (only time/reason I impose manually is so I can set up the flex cut as "butt cuts") - do you run the material...

Its...one of those days I can't figure out why our T160 can't seem to stay in alignment for this small sticker job and hoping someone on here can tell me what I should be doing differently. I ran 100ft worth of stickers last week without any issues so Im pulling my hair out trying to figure...

LexJet is pretty good source for info although you might find better price/product selection with other vendors who are more specialized for specific type of printing (i.e. Fellers, Grimco, Harbor). I forget the specifics, but LexJet is owned (? affiliated? part of?) the same company that owns...

Mmmm, maybe a couple months before color started fading. Without lam we noticed reds (magenta) fading first. Not sure how much UV protection PET lam's provide, but solvent definitely seems like the best choice for your situation.

We get sheets of digital printable vinyl from Lindenmeyr and run it without any issue on our KM 6085. The material isn't cheap but sometimes its more efficient to run vinyl digitally and cut using guillotine as opposed to running it on a wide format printer and having to set up your vinyl...

We had a Canon ipf9400 for 4-5 years and only had to replace one of the printheads one time. When it came time to replace it we went with a HP Latex 560 and a Canon pro-4000. We moved all production for outdoor materials to the HP and even do basic posters on the HP as well. Heads up - its...

We avoid PVC unless it's necessary. Partly because of the fact that it's PVC, partly because the hassle with static/cutting it by hand. I was looking at Grimco's super smooth coroplast but I've never worked with it before. Think it's worth getting some sheets to try out?

Anyone know of an alternative to UltraBoard/Gatorboard for basic signage that needs to be moisture resistant (i.e. sidewalk signs)? I originally started using Bubble-X for basic mounted signs as an alternative to UltraBoard because its cheaper, a whole lot easier to cut by hand, and technically...

I guess that's the dilemma here...since this isn't a market that we have any experience –and dont plan on entering it– I have no idea what the local market price is. And since we dont know the market price we don't know how much to markup our costs. We're not trying to be competitive so much as...

One of the reasons Im not convinced its dust is under a loupe the white specks are not organic shapes - they're sharp lines and 3-pointed star shapes (like the benz logo). My paper rep says he's seen this issue with a lot of Baryta papers and says its due to the fragile nature of the Baryta...

Im convinced its a faulty roll for multiple reasons, including what you mentioned. The Hahnemuhle rep keeps pushing the idea that it's static pulling dust on the paper during the printing process. Im getting pretty tired of running tests just get the same results so Im trying to get some other...

This isn't quite "sign making" but hoping in this community can help with this... We do some fine art printing using a Canon pro4000. Before that we had a ipf9400 and have rarely – if ever– had any quality issues. Ordered a roll of Hahnemuhle Baryta FB for a specific client and the prints...

Do you mind sharing your profile specs? Ive been trying to for ages to find a material that runs well on our HP 560 but I've never been able to tweak the profiles for that sweet spot where the ink is dry but the material isn't warped.

We just upgraded from Caldera v12 on an intel iMac to Caldera v15 on M1 iMac and its a little clunky. Not sure if its just me but v12 seemed to rip files a lot faster.

One of our major clients is a state university and they're looking to replace an existing banner on one of their building facades. They're thinking around 14x18ft vinyl (not mesh). We primarily do digital/offset/mailing as well as some basic signage (i.e. indoor signs, corro, nothing fancy) so...

I wish there was a visual dictionary for all of these old fonts... Anyone know what this is?

What are the deciding factors to determine what type of laminate needs to be used for a given material/application? This feels like a super amateur question but hey, this is Signs101 not Signs435 :p The extent of my knowledge is that you should use a lam that matches the base material; so...

Thats actually what Im doing for the time being. I just have to be standing there as soon as the printer wakes up to start printing and pull the fabric taught until it actually ~starts~ printing. Theres a second or two when the printer is initializing to print when the vacuum is at the default...

I don't actually need the generic profile – I was just saying that any profile that was made based off the Backlit or Coated Textiles profiles (whether I make it, clone it, download it from PrintOS, etc.) prints with the magenta out of alignment. Im currently using a profile I made based off...