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So here's the thing we've seen a thousand times in this business. Often, when starting a new business, a huge amount of time and energy is spent on devising a business name that's so good it can't possibly fail. And then it fails. Generally, the reasons come down to lack of planning and research...

Using the takeup reel on a laminator works well. Set it turning at a high speed and just hand hold a stanley knife to make the cut. Cutting through the core takes the longest but it works.

I walked away from Flexi after version 8. Lumpy, buggy and poor colour rendering.

We do enough of this kind of work to have our own cherry picker. It comes down to being prepared. First, we added rope cleats to working side of the bucket. We hope two ratchet clamps that we've spliced ropes onto, they get clamped to the top edge of the panel. The free end of the ropes are...

All you need is a set of digital vernier calipers set to metric and a calculator. Step 1. Measure the thickness of the remaining media on the roll. Step 2. Measure the thickness of the laminate Step 3. Divide Step 1 by Step 2, that will give you the number of turns of media on the roll. Step 4...

I use liquid laminate. Use a roller to apply a very light coat, let dry for ten minutes and hit it with a light coat again. If you use a heavy coat it will tend to run under the media and stop it from sticking so you need to be careful.

Trump with a mullet looks suspiciously like Billy Ray Cyrus. Has anyone ever seen them together?

I just use white cotton gloves when I'm laminating. I run continuously sweep my palms across the print to wipe any dust from it and keep tension on the print at the same time. Takes about two minutes of practice and no dust ever.

I suspect its going to be a change in the output intent, colormetic, relative colormetric or absolute. Go back to the first print settings and check that it hasn't been changed.

Are both prints from exactly the same media? Have you changed inksets?

From painful experience, when Roland printers are throwing cascading errors for no obvious reason the first place to start is to power the printer down using the main switch, turn it off at the wall, unplug it and have at least two beers. After that, plus it in, turn on the power at the wall...

One of the most common mistakes in illuminated signage is the use of acetic cure for sealing. The acetic curing mechanism releases a vapour of acetic acid (that's why it smells like vinegar) which can cause corrosion in electrical connections. Oxime and other neutral cure silicones are safe to...

Have used this saw for everything. Biggest trick was to find a fine enough blade, it's a real oddball size.

This is the one I can't do without.

I suspect this may be a combination of the media, relative humidity and head height causing static electricity to take out nozzles. Try these three steps to isolate the problem. Ensure your heads have all nozzles firing before each step. 1. Ensure your head is not too high. The head height...

That rule of 300dpi for offset work was based on laziness and ignorance. The correct formula for determining correct resolution for offset printing is line screen in lines per inch multiplied by the square root of 2. If you do the math, unless you are trying to print banknotes, this is way short...

Try http://eng.e-cut.ru/ This program cuts my weeding time by at least 50%. It's Russia based. Make sure you use a burner credit card, I had issues.

You need two banners. The front one sewn with Keder and mounted to the fence with sailtrack. The second banner is just plain vinyl but it just gets ziptied to the reverse side of the fence behind the first banner. Wind slits or holes do nothing except create weak points.

Any time we start the design process for external signage, the first questions we ask is what distance will it be READ from and at what speed will the reader be travelling. There are many empirical guides that will show the minimum font sizes in each of these situations. As a guide, simple fonts...