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3M 1080 Lifting around Contours

datoshway

New Member
I got a call from a client today that said the 1080 is lifting from an area of the vehicle where there is a deep channel we heated the vinyl into. Any suggestions for fixing without reprinting the panel? I did not use a primer in this are which in hindsight I probably should have.
 

JoshLoring

New Member
Shouldnt be using primer on ANYTHING. Always work it in.. Never heat in.
Oh wait. I missed the 3M part. Sorry.. Oracal doesn't do that.
 

HulkSmash

New Member
I got a call from a client today that said the 1080 is lifting from an area of the vehicle where there is a deep channel we heated the vinyl into. Any suggestions for fixing without reprinting the panel? I did not use a primer in this are which in hindsight I probably should have.

Don't bridge your vinyl and heat it in. It'll fail. It'll want to go back to its original positioning before it was heated...
just work it in as you are laying it.
 

Smacka

New Member
Shouldnt be using primer on ANYTHING. Always work it in.. Never heat in.

If you never use primer and never heat vinyl in, how do you do bumpers, grills, mirrors, rivets, etc.? I would be very interested in knowing that elusive bit of information!
 

Smacka

New Member
Don't bridge your vinyl and heat it in. It'll fail. It'll want to go back to its original positioning before it was heated...
just work it in as you are laying it.

If you post heat it you will reset the memory of the vinyl. If you DONT reset it, it will fail for sure.
 

DRamm76

New Member
I have to agree with Smacka def dont post heat it. I'm yet to see any good come out of that..
 

datoshway

New Member
Thanks for the replies guys, yeah I was talking about 180 not 1080, sorry. I did post heat the vinyl but I think the channel was so deep we maxed out on the stretch. Looks like a new panel is going on.
 

Smacka

New Member
In situations like that (recess in bumper) start your stretch early so that you have an excess (if possible) going into the recess and lay as you are heating to bring it back so that you are shrinking the vinyl instead of stretching it. Make sense?
 

HulkSmash

New Member
No, I said you MUST post heat.

I never post heat. Haven't had 1 wrap fail.
I never use primer either. Primer usually ends up messing up your adhesive.

And he wasn't saying don't Heat when you install, he was saying don't heat into channels.. they need to be worked in..
 

megacab

New Member
I never post heat. Haven't had 1 wrap fail.
I never use primer either. Primer usually ends up messing up your adhesive.

And he wasn't saying don't Heat when you install, he was saying don't heat into channels.. they need to be worked in..


Really? you do not post heat? i stand corrected i guess. i was told to always post heat......
 

ProWraps

New Member
we always post heat vinyl that is laid into channels. 3m recommends you post heat the entire wrap. i think they are right about doing it. we dont usually do it other than the channels. but there is a reason for doing it.
 

Smacka

New Member
Lets be clear here... if you are trying to work cold vinyl into a deep recess, what do you do when you run out of material and its 3 inches from the bottom of the channel and already tighter than ****'s hatband? If you stretch it cold and use no primer or heat, how are you getting it to "lay" in that channel? Very curious to know...maybe I am missing something...
 

ProWraps

New Member
Lets be clear here... if you are trying to work cold vinyl into a deep recess, what do you do when you run out of material and its 3 inches from the bottom of the channel and already tighter than ****'s hatband? If you stretch it cold and use no primer or heat, how are you getting it to "lay" in that channel? Very curious to know...maybe I am missing something...

you do a better job designing and printing correctly.
 
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