Welcome To Signs101.com: Largest Forum for Signmaking Professionals

Signs101.com: Largest Forum for Signmaking Professionals is the LARGEST online community & discussion forum for professional sign-makers and graphic designers.

 


  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Best printable vinyl to work with?

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by Sooner, Apr 18, 2019.

  1. Sooner

    Sooner New Member

    3
    0
    1
    Aug 19, 2018
    Oklahoma
    What is the best and easiest printable vinyl to use when using corrugated substrates and metal?
     
    Tags:
  2. unclebun

    unclebun Very Active Member

    We typically use an air release calendared vinyl for signs on those substrates. The one we keep on hand right now is Grimco's Briteline 3203X.
     
  3. Gino

    Gino Premium Subscriber

    31,811
    1,874
    113
    Jun 7, 2006
    PA
    You kinda have a double edged sword in that question. With Cor-X, I'd find the cheapest air release vinyl on the market, as it's a cheap temporary substrate. For metal I'd want a better grade as it's more than likely gonna be a more permanent type of sign. You do realize, you'll have to laminate these things..... or it will shorten the life expectancy maybe in half with the kinda printer you have.
     
  4. 2B

    2B Moderator

    2,866
    334
    83
    May 5, 2011
    TX
    That is a vague question

    are you wanting CAL or CAST?
    are you referring to Cor-Plast (plastic) or corrugated sheet metal
    anything with air channels is going to be easier than without.
     
  5. TimToad

    TimToad Very Active Member

    There are so many good choices, but all depend on the individual circumstances you are working under.

    I wouldn't consider most Coroplast signs permanent, so no point using a 7-9 year cast wrap material on them, but on a solid .090 aluminum sign with a welded frame behind it would.

    We use 3M IJ35c and IJ40c and their matching laminates for most of our standard longevity work.

    For quicky, temporary signs we either direct print with our UV flatbed or use a cheap calendared vinyl and laminate. Everybody has their own preferences for brands, so you might need to do some experimentation to see which fit yours.
     
  6. Johnny Best

    Johnny Best Very Active Member

    2,870
    1,616
    113
    Dec 9, 2015
    buffalo ny
    Like everyone else, cast with cast laminate on outdoor metal signs and low priced air egress calendared / laminate vinyl on cor-x signs.
     
  7. bannertime

    bannertime "You guys do banners, right?"

    1,735
    397
    83
    Sep 8, 2016
    Arlington, TX
    I used to like using 3203x on coroplast. Since I've been testing Arlon 510, I've started using it on the coro and would probably use it instead. I outsource a majority of our coro now so using the cheapest stuff we got works for us. I don't even laminate it. I either perfcut it on the plotter or trim it by hand at slap 'er on. I was flood coating coro with cut vinyl most my youth, so I don't really need the air egress.

    Most of the metal signs we do get 4600lx/3420 combo or some type of cast gerber/3m cut vinyl.

    I will say, I'm not a huge fan of the 3203x anymore. It leaves a lot of adhesive residue during removal. So we had switched to ij40c but didn't like the price and fell in love with 4600lx after a rep showed it to us. So the 4600lx replaced our 3203x, ij35c, and 40c rolls. I also don't like the Biteline UV shield laminate. The 3203x/UV Shield shrinks like 1/8th inch pretty fast. So we've switched to the Arlon 3420/3220 laminates. Now we're in the market for a cheapo roll like the 510 and have been happy with the DAF Safeguard if we need to laminate cheap stuff or super short term graphics.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2019
  8. unclebun

    unclebun Very Active Member

    When we use the 3203X on coroplast we don't laminate it. Even a 4x8 is easy with the aluminum Big Squeegee. We use the 3203X laminated on ACM signs. Everybody says to use cast, but we don't see the value in it. The 3203X lasts 5-6 years before you see edge peeling or surface cracking, and by that time the ink has already begun to fade, so I cannot see any point in having vinyl that still has 3 years life left if the ink is already fading.

    This way of thinking does not work if you use the wrong calendared vinyl. We got messed over by the 3M IJ40 and IJ35 a few years back. They are supposed to be 7 and 5 year vinyls, but we had adhesive failures after only 18 months to two years and had to re-do a lot of signs. We don't experience that with the 3203X.
     
  9. SameDay Signs

    SameDay Signs Member

    255
    5
    18
    Oct 20, 2010
    tiffin ohio
    Avery 2923ez not the 2903 glossy version but the matter 2923ez since it is polymeric and super easy to work with as well as really well priced
     
  10. Sooner

    Sooner New Member

    3
    0
    1
    Aug 19, 2018
    Oklahoma
    Yes, pretty vague.. I agree. I was scrambling for advise. I had tried to put vinyl (air egress) on small coroplast sign. Couldn't keep air bubbles from ruining it.. and I did go with the channels on the sign...just didn't have enough technique to get it done. Have since mounted 4x8 air egress vinyl to metal substrate with great success....with the small sign i just printed a banner and applied it to the coro cause it had to be done like yesterday.....lol
     
  11. Sooner

    Sooner New Member

    3
    0
    1
    Aug 19, 2018
    Oklahoma
    Thanks for the responses. I hope to be able to help others someday. :)
     
  12. Johnny Best

    Johnny Best Very Active Member

    2,870
    1,616
    113
    Dec 9, 2015
    buffalo ny
    The big squeegee is a great tool for applying vinyl to coroplast material. There are videos on how to apply it.
     
Loading...

Share This Page

 


Loading...