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Clear Coating Oil Based Paints??
- Thread starter Sign_Boy
- Start date
CS-SignSupply-TT
New Member
This may sound strange, but did the oil based paint negatively affect the MDO i.e. image degradation? I am not sure the local sign supplier will have oil based clear coat. You can check out CLEARSTAR and VALSPAR
Sign_Boy
New Member
No issues with the MDO.
The signs looks great.
Once it's done I'll be posting some pics.
I'll have to check out CLEARSTAR and VALSPAR, I just don't want to put something down and have it mess with my paint.
Thanks
Car Wax - now that's a cool idea.
I'll repel the water also.....
Thanks
Craig Sjoquist
New Member
I use Ronan's Aquacoat....UV Aquthane been using it since introduced awesome clear come flat, semi, gloss.
I mostly use gloss also used on windows, window splashes, storefronts, Coroplas back lighted
Does not matter whether enamel or water base painted
This clear will hold up a good 7 years and I'm in Florida and been using it longer.
I mostly use gloss also used on windows, window splashes, storefronts, Coroplas back lighted
Does not matter whether enamel or water base painted
This clear will hold up a good 7 years and I'm in Florida and been using it longer.
Sign_Boy
New Member
Do I need to let the paint outgas or cure for a certain period of time before I apply this?
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Sign Boy.............
Reasons for these questions. Many clears will burn the paint. The lighter the color, the more noticeable it will be. The more sun exposure the faster it will happen. Most clears on the market today are pure crap. Probably be better off not doing it. They'll all say you can do it. You can do it if you're painting a front porch or a lawn chair, but it you have air-brushing [I think this is the same sign], lettering paints and all kinds of other little nuances, you're probalby doing yourself... and your customer, a dis-service.
Other than automotive clears, which aren't the best chemical mixtures with today's lettering paints, the best clear on the market is Dana. I used to get it from the West Coast. We had to buy it by the cases. Yes, cases. To get a good deal you had to spend something like $3,000 or $4,000 at a shot. We got colors at the same time, but any walldog will tell you... that chit will last for many-many years without yellowing or burning the paint. It also will not crack which many of the clears also do today.
- What colors are on the sign ??
- Can you post a picture ??
- What kinda paint did you use [manufacturer] ??
- Is the sign exposed to a lot of light ??
Reasons for these questions. Many clears will burn the paint. The lighter the color, the more noticeable it will be. The more sun exposure the faster it will happen. Most clears on the market today are pure crap. Probably be better off not doing it. They'll all say you can do it. You can do it if you're painting a front porch or a lawn chair, but it you have air-brushing [I think this is the same sign], lettering paints and all kinds of other little nuances, you're probalby doing yourself... and your customer, a dis-service.
Other than automotive clears, which aren't the best chemical mixtures with today's lettering paints, the best clear on the market is Dana. I used to get it from the West Coast. We had to buy it by the cases. Yes, cases. To get a good deal you had to spend something like $3,000 or $4,000 at a shot. We got colors at the same time, but any walldog will tell you... that chit will last for many-many years without yellowing or burning the paint. It also will not crack which many of the clears also do today.
Sign_Boy
New Member
Blue Green
Darker Blue Green
Apple Green "kind of"
Yellow
White
Light Blue
Black
and Air Brushed Light Blue to White
Ronan & 1Shot
The sign will get hit by the sun
As for a picture, I'll have that soon.
With all of these factors, I don't think it's worth the risk clearing it
Thanks Gino.
CS-SignSupply-TT
New Member
"...Wax ON...Wax OFF..." Somebody had to say it...heh!heh!heh!
Jackpine
New Member
There are other posts here about additives for lettering enamel the would help. I always add a frog juice or Clear Shield for fortifying and to help add a uniform shine. It also has a UV inhibitor to slow the fading or dulling the sun will cause. Smith's cream for smooth lettering, smoothie for eliminating fish eye and Penetrol to fortify and give a consistent viscosity.
A good wax after the paint has dried and a little time to cure. No clear varnish or finish need. If in times (years) another coat of wax ( I have used liquid) will rejuvenate the sheen and restore the uniform sheen.
A good wax after the paint has dried and a little time to cure. No clear varnish or finish need. If in times (years) another coat of wax ( I have used liquid) will rejuvenate the sheen and restore the uniform sheen.
Last edited:
Sign_Boy
New Member
I'll be going with wax.
Thanks again everyone!!
Here's a link to the pics:
http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=85272
Thanks again everyone!!
Here's a link to the pics:
http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=85272
Sign_Boy
New Member
Funny you say that about 1-Shot, a buddy of mine said don't use it. He's had nothing but problems with it.
Craig Sjoquist
New Member
No .... as far as out gassing goes
...Aquathane is waterbase it breaths drys within a hour also
..Just let the paint dry 1-2 hours for latex, 3-5 hrs enamel under normal conditions.
Waxing is fine but does not last like the Aquathane does.
...Aquathane is waterbase it breaths drys within a hour also
..Just let the paint dry 1-2 hours for latex, 3-5 hrs enamel under normal conditions.
Waxing is fine but does not last like the Aquathane does.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
It's too late for this one, but penetrol being mixed in with the paint while painting it on, will do more for your paint than any clearcoat. It will flow out, dry slower and dry harder and shinier than without it. We use it pretty much routinely.
Most paints already have hardeners and clearing type agents in them already.... if they are a good quality paint. 1-Shot LETTERING used to, but I don't have as much faith in it any more. Their clear coats were a joke and I imagine they still are.
When painting clears on top of this stuff, you're more than likely asking for trouble. If you're not matching the exact kinda paint with the clear and they have similar formulas.... one major thing will take place. They will expand and contract at different rates... especially up North here. People think because they do it in Texas or Florida that the sun is most extreme down there, so that's the ultimate test. To a degree that's correct, but the hardest thing when not matching your clearcoats to the paint being used is when it gets super hot in the summer and cold in the winter and huge temperature changes from day to night..... your paint breathes differently. When this happens, you generally get cracking. If the manufacturer has too much UV inhibitors, it will burn the paint and if not enough... it will probably flake. That's the main reason we don't mix top coats and clears.
Years ago a hand-painted sign would last anywhere from 15 to 25 years, if prepped and produced properly. Anything less was considered lesser grade signs and pretty much worthless. That's why it's so funny or odd to many of us, to wrap our heads around signs having the possibility of reaching 5 or 6 years. Again, we had lead in the background paint and the lettering paint and if you didn't thin your paint down, you did well.... and so did your customer.
Today, just about everything has been taken out of the paint and they have us using acrylic and latex paints. We'll use them, but only if stipulated by the customer. I know some people swear by them, but we still can't.
Oh yeah.... and about waxing a sign. That's an old trick to bring an old sign back to life for a few more years. Once a sign is out and starts chalking and discoloring, you simply wash it down with mild soap and water and then wax it with some decent car wax. It looks almost brand new again, but I wouldn't do it ahead of time.
Most paints already have hardeners and clearing type agents in them already.... if they are a good quality paint. 1-Shot LETTERING used to, but I don't have as much faith in it any more. Their clear coats were a joke and I imagine they still are.
When painting clears on top of this stuff, you're more than likely asking for trouble. If you're not matching the exact kinda paint with the clear and they have similar formulas.... one major thing will take place. They will expand and contract at different rates... especially up North here. People think because they do it in Texas or Florida that the sun is most extreme down there, so that's the ultimate test. To a degree that's correct, but the hardest thing when not matching your clearcoats to the paint being used is when it gets super hot in the summer and cold in the winter and huge temperature changes from day to night..... your paint breathes differently. When this happens, you generally get cracking. If the manufacturer has too much UV inhibitors, it will burn the paint and if not enough... it will probably flake. That's the main reason we don't mix top coats and clears.
Years ago a hand-painted sign would last anywhere from 15 to 25 years, if prepped and produced properly. Anything less was considered lesser grade signs and pretty much worthless. That's why it's so funny or odd to many of us, to wrap our heads around signs having the possibility of reaching 5 or 6 years. Again, we had lead in the background paint and the lettering paint and if you didn't thin your paint down, you did well.... and so did your customer.
Today, just about everything has been taken out of the paint and they have us using acrylic and latex paints. We'll use them, but only if stipulated by the customer. I know some people swear by them, but we still can't.
Oh yeah.... and about waxing a sign. That's an old trick to bring an old sign back to life for a few more years. Once a sign is out and starts chalking and discoloring, you simply wash it down with mild soap and water and then wax it with some decent car wax. It looks almost brand new again, but I wouldn't do it ahead of time.
so much useful info there.
prototype66
New Member
a totally great thread ta boot. Thanks to everyone !
Feldspar
New Member
Can't seem to find Dana info online. Do you have any more info on where we can get it?
visual800
Active Member
I cant find nothing online about this either and why would you pay so damn much for something that can be sprayed by body shop or done yourself. I dont understand. If you spent that much on clear I hope you got a 55 gallon drum. Any automotive urethanes will go on top of crappy OneShot if you know how to lay it and offfer well over 5 years or protection. Basecoats and clearcoats will go well over 10 years
let us know about the clearcoat you speak of I like reading up on stuff. And FYI Frogjuice sucks!