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Question Contour Cutting

EZ Ink

New Member
Recently purchased a contour cut driver from SAI for my Mutoh VJ 1324 to do contour cutting on Graphtec 6000-60 for stickers and decals. However, when I sent the print to my Graphtec cutter it appears not to read the registration marks. Any one else have this experience. Thanks.

Glenn Combs
EZ Ink Promotions
Brentwood, CA 94513
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
is it trying to read them. do you have the arms system printing the same kind of marks the cutter is looking for?
is it finding some of them but not all of them.
what is it doing exactly
 

bannertime

Active Member
I'd recommend using the type 1 marks; for one it's less likely to misread due to being close to the art or the color marks. So like Papa said. Make sure everything is in sync about which marks you are using. A run down of how you're setting up the contour cut lines and sending them will also help us, help you.
 

EZ Ink

New Member
Registration marks and alignment are all good. The Graphtec arm attempts to read it then stops. Was wondering if anyone else had this similar experience. Thanks.

Glenn Combs
 

Jackpine

New Member
Recently purchased a contour cut driver from SAI for my Mutoh VJ 1324 to do contour cutting on Graphtec 6000-60 for stickers and decals. However, when I sent the print to my Graphtec cutter it appears not to read the registration marks. Any one else have this experience. Thanks.

Glenn Combs
EZ Ink Promotions
Brentwood, CA 94513

My marks look like this. Graphec CE 3000-60 MK2 Set the marks in your RIP.
 

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papabud

Lone Wolf
the next question is what material are you using. the electric eye has trouble with reflective and some high gloss stuffs.
also i had a problem with mine not reading once. tried everything only thing that worked for me was to do a factory reset of the machine.
make sure your eye is clean with no scraps of anything stuck to it. check make sure you dont have any broken wires.
 

GAC05

Quit buggin' me
Where does it fail to find the mark? On the first one closest to the cutter head or at the other end of the print? What is the error message on the cutter when it quits trying?
If it can't find the first one you need to make sure you have enough material on the leading edge of the print ( you need about an 1" all around until you get used to setting things up) and that the material origin is set to that edge and not on the crop mark. You also need to move the carriage so that the blade holder is right next to the crop mark (inside if you are using the #2 type marks. Don't reset the origin.
If it is failing on the far edge or on the number 4 mark (assuming you are only using 4) it may be that the material is not loaded square/straight in cutter. Check it and run the material out to see if it is tracking without skewing.
If all else fails flip the print (both the material and in Flexi) and try cutting from that orientation.
I have a ce6000-120 and use the Cutting Master plug-in to cut from Corel and Illustrator with Flexi 12 doing the RIP & print.

wayne k
guam usa
 
Last edited:

pjfmeister

New Member
May need to calibrate the cutter to the media...
On the Plotter -
Media Sensor Setup
Turn On Sensor Adjust
Menu/Arms/Sensor Adjust - Select 1 to scan the media registration mark
(use type 1 registration marks to calibrate)
 

EffectiveCause

Premium Subscriber
Your marks could also be too light. I had a Graphtec that would randomly not read a mark. I could just take a sharpie to the mark and it would then read it just fine.
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
If you're printing on white media the marks should be fine without any need to augment them with Sharpies, snot, or whatever. Redrawing marks by hand is tricky at best, usually silly, and always inaccurate. If you just have to get something contour cut and your auto sensing tackle is not working reliably, use the manual 4-point marks and, if your rig has the light pointer use it it locate them. If not, it's not rocket science to just use the tip of the blade. Assuming your eyesight is adequate. This method is slow but if you take care, it's sufficiently accurate for most jobs. It's also a better way to do contour cutting on media that isn't friendly to sensing. It beats the hell out of the endless parlor tricks that people try to fool the sensing tackle.

I would assume that you're using the Graphtec type 2 marks, by far the most common choice. Are you starting by placing the blade holder inside the first mark close to the corner and then setting the origin to this point before you start? If you don't it's likely the plotter won't find anything.

I further assume that you're set up to use the large ~1" marks. The smaller marks from days gone bye can be a b!tch.

If it reads the first mark but has trouble with any of the others it's usually because the media is skewed too much or, more rarely, the feed compensation on the printer, the plotter, and the software is wildly divergent. I.e. is what the software thinks is 1 foot pretty much what the printer and the plotter think is 1 foot? The only leeway you have in this is the size of the mark.
 

Jburns

New Member
My gut tells me the Op didnt leave at least 4 inches of material in front of the front marks, and behind the rear marks. When it tries to find the marks, the media sensors are uncovered.

That is my experience with the three graphtecs I have owned.
 

SameDay Signs

New Member
Make sure there's at least 3 to 4 inches of material each side and if it says cutter error like it gets to read and cant could be been to glossy and so on, we sometimes will either turn off overhead.light or put masking tape over the registration mark which makes it easier to read
 

AF

New Member
Phil Johnson always jumps in to help with Summa questions, can’t recall seeing a Graphtec rep jump in on Graphtec questions. Just an observation.
 
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