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Need Help Cutting .080 Aluminum - How?

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Barry Jenicek

New Member
Hey RouterHeads

I am wanting to cut out a few sign blanks using .080 aluminum sheets. I’ve never done this before so I thought I would pass this by those of you who have.

So here are my questions…

1. Are there different types of .080 aluminum…meaning, are there “softer/harder” grades? If so, what is it called?

2. What type of bit do you use? (Brand Name & Part Nbr?

3. What speed do you run you router?

4. What RPM?

5. Do you use a Spray Mister?

6. What are some of the things you have produced?

7. Additional comments you might have.

Thanks for taking the time.

Barry

Signs by Unique llc
 
Stacey K

Stacey K

I like making signs
I cut .040 with my circular saw. I take the .080 to the local heating place and for a couple bucks they shear it for me. I couldn't get the above link to load.
 
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Evan Gillette

New Member
Aluminum sheet can be a few different alloys (often referred to as "series" ie: "3000 series") for example Grimco's painted .080 sheets are 3003-h14 alloy (3003 alloy and "h14" designates the temper of the material)
https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Products/AluminumPanels

3000 and 5000 series are common (3003 and 5052) for sheets. You can look up comparison tables for figuring out the best option for what you are doing with it (bending, farming, drawing, machining etc.) just google "aluminum alloy characteristics".

As for bits I usually use a single flute "O flute" spiral upcut bit. Onsrud or amana are my go-to brands for price and availability. Tools today has good charts for feeds and speeds down in the description area for the amana bits. Your bit selection will depend a lot on your machine and table setup, do you have vacuum hold down, what rpm/hp spindle and what machine. Also make sure you ramp into the cut!

Quick example I have used:
Onsrud 63-624 (1/4" single flute "O flute" upcut)
1/8" aluminum sheet
18000 RPM, 60 IPM feed rate, 0.0033" Chip load, running dry/no coolant

On my machine I could push quite a bit harder and maybe get up towards 80 IPM or more especially with a mister, I just don't see the need usually. The chips look fine and bit life seems to be good.

Quick Tip: Amazon Prime Business sometimes has 50% off coupons that work on onsrud bits. I got a few at the beginning of the year for half off, a pretty sweet deal!
 
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peterprintingparty

New Member
I use the Onsrud 33635 tool,
RPM 16000
IPM 70
Plunge 35
And I use the mister

I do two passes, but you can get away with one, I've just noticed doing one I tend to get chips underneath the material, which can cause vacuum failure and other problems.

Looks like there are some new tools out there that may be better, something to look into, for sure.
 
S

SignEST

New Member
JBurton said:
I run .090 3003 aluminum at 18700 RPM, 60 IPM, in two passes at .07 then .09 all with a mister. This keeps chips from getting under my sheet, and gives me a nearly mirror finish on the edges. Like others, I could cut through in one pass, but it likes to lift the edge of the sheet and throw a couple of chips under it. I have yet to play with my feeds and speeds to see what this thing can really do...
Belin bits, 33317A is a fine 1/8" bit with 1/8" shank, 5/16" CEL. The narrower the bit, the less load, and in good practice, the more resilient it will be compared to a 1/4" bit.
Click to expand...
A pressure foot helps a lot to keep the parts down and lifting. Especially for sign blanks. We ran at 175 ipm 19500 rpm 3/8 cutter 1 pass into 0.80 no lifting using a mister ofcourse. Pressure foot also makes you hate life if it decides to snag on a part.

The one thing that has helped me a lot over the years is screwing my spoilboard directly to my actual machine bed. I created the holes in the table using the CNC router and that lets me keep using the same location for every spoilboard. Can also use the said screws in the holes to clamp parts down onto the table. Then I apply a bead of silicone around my whole table and not change the board for about a year. I start off with about 1" thick sheet of Trupan and leave it around .8 inches and work it down to about 0.3 before I have to swap it out. The entire time the spoilboard has maximum hold down due to the pump filter staying clean and 0 vacuum leaks thanks to bead of silicone around the board itself. It stops your board from potato chipping too.
 
gnubler

gnubler

Active Member
Where are you all getting your aluminum sheets from? Has the cost of these gone through the roof also? Is there a source for pre-cut 18x24" sign blanks with round corners?
 
gnubler

gnubler

Active Member
Thanks, I'll check that and Grimco. I only need eight blanks, so will probably get burned on shipping.
 
Flatbed Tools

Flatbed Tools

Merchant Member
Barry Jenicek said:
Hey RouterHeads

I am wanting to cut out a few sign blanks using .080 aluminum sheets. I’ve never done this before so I thought I would pass this by those of you who have.

So here are my questions…

1. Are there different types of .080 aluminum…meaning, are there “softer/harder” grades? If so, what is it called?

2. What type of bit do you use? (Brand Name & Part Nbr?

3. What speed do you run you router?

4. What RPM?

5. Do you use a Spray Mister?

6. What are some of the things you have produced?

7. Additional comments you might have.

Thanks for taking the time.

Barry

Signs by Unique llc
Click to expand...
1. Are there different types of .080 aluminum…meaning, are there “softer/harder” grades? If so, what is it called?
Yes, there are different "grades" of aluminum. I would ask the company providing the metal to give you what value they are providing (6061, 6063, 7075 etc....). These aluminum's do route differently depending upon the grade. The three I mentioned all route pretty similarly. But the grade is important to know so you don't have a "meltdown" literally of aluminum or bits when you go to route.

2. What type of bit do you use? (Brand Name & Part Nbr?
Our nACo covered bits (Rs404 (4mm cutting diameter) /Rs406 (6mm cutting diameter) are great for routing aluminum. The coating allows you to route without using the mister/cooling agent.

3. What speed do you run your router?
Depends on the spindle/aluminum/cutter/thickness. Let me know what you have so I can narrow down speeds/feeds/etc...

4. What RPM?
Again, depends on above.

5. Do you use a Spray Mister?
It never hurts. You always need a mister with non-coated bits or you will be paying for many more bits. The bits with a coating reduces heat, which doesn't allow the aluminum to stick to the bit.

6. What are some of the things you have produced?


7. Additional comments you might have.
If you have questions. Shoot us a phone call!
 
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