Help! Success using Flexi as RIP software??

[j35a]

Hello smart people,
I have a question about getting RIP software.
I have a Mimaki JV3-160sp, and HP 5500 ps.

Anyone have any success using Flexi (FlexiPro, Flexi Starter, FlexiStarter 10, etc) as RIP software.
Also, does every version of Flexi come with RIP options to print, nowadays??

I want to be able to print to both, and have software to run a plotter.

Would Flexi do the job?
Anyone using it to print and cut vinyl on different machines??

Can't seem to get any straight answers, so I figured I would ask the experts.
Please help, if you can shed some light.

THANK YOU!

 

[mopar691]

Yes, flexi could easily run all three of them. As long as it is Flexi Pro. Just set up your various machines in the production manager.

 

[jayhawksigns]

Yep, Flexi Pro and you would be good to go. Is 90% of what we use here.

 

[j35a]

So is FlexiStarter out of the question for something like this??

 

[mopar691]

So is FlexiStarter out of the question for something like this??

Yes

 

[SightLine]

Flexi Pro is the only one that will print to both printers and drive a cutter. Starter/Basic/Design versions will not print. There is a reason Starter is $400 while Pro is $4000....

Yes - been printing using Flexi for years on Mimaki printers, cutting the print jobs on Summa cutters. Your cutter must have some sort of optical registration system though for print/cut.

 

[bob]

...Your cutter must have some sort of optical registration system though for print/cut.

Only if you want to use a fully automated process. You always can use the unfashionable but equally effective manual bomb sight method which is fully supported by Flexi. In fact, for larger prints, it's far more reliable.

 

[player]

Only if you want to use a fully automated process. You always can use the unfashionable but equally effective manual bomb sight method which is fully supported by Flexi. In fact, for larger prints, it's far more reliable.

Could someone explain how to do the "manual bomb sight method" please?

 

[bob]

Could someone explain how to do the "manual bomb sight method" please?

When you invoke Flexi's Rip and Print for a job with a contour cut path specified on the Registration Mark menu on the Contour tab select '4 Point". It should be the first item on the menu.

Print the job. There will be a small cross with a couple of concentric circles printed at each corner of the print. Each mark will be numbered 1 through 4.

Load the print into the plotter as square as you can make it.

Send the job to the plotter. The plotter will present a dialog asking you [trying to remember the exact text and I can't] how you want to locate the registration marks.

I always choose the second option, whatever it is, and then perhaps another dialog asking if you want to use the the plotter's built-in light pointer. If your plotter has one. Some people have actual physical bomb sights that they temporarily install in place of the blade holder. Others, not doubt with better vision than myself, just use the tip of the blade.

After selecting the correct option for your situation, a dialog will be displayed telling you to locate the first registration mark. Move the light pointer/bomb sight/blade/whatever you're using on the plotter to the dead center of the first mark. Press Enter or whatever on the dialog.

Do the same thing for the next three points.

Respond to the final dialog telling you to re-install your blade holder. For the life of me I can't comprehend why this dialog is displayed when we just finished using the built-in light pen. But it does.

The plotter will take off merrily contour cutting away.

It's slow and only as accurate as your eyeball but it's absolutely foolproof.