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How to adjust JV33 Capping Station?

Discussion in 'Mimaki' started by thewood, Jun 4, 2014.

  1. thewood

    thewood Very Active Member

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    Dec 28, 2005
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    Tags:
  2. 4R Graphics

    4R Graphics Active Member

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    Ok first of all the cap has little tabs on the back side these are to guide it into place and the tab on the back left side also sets it to be at the end of the head so you really can not adjust it.

    However I reread your other post and what is happening is the head is moving and you have a gap between head and cap when you power down the printer.

    You can or should be able to fix this there are 2 or 3 screws that hold the whole assembly of the cap into the printer loosen those screws and you will see that the whole cap assembly will move a little (elongated holes) what you want to do is loosen the screws (dont take them out) and push the whole assembly to the left and pull it forward towards the front of the printer. this should fix the problem you may have to adjust and tweek it but should fix the gap problem.

    What is happening by moving it to the left and forward is you are making the head hit the little alignment tabs on the cap a little sooner and therefore it sits a little titghter.

    The cap assembly has a lot of movement built into it because of the self aligning design but your original gap after power off problem is due to the slight movement of the head when power is off of the motors and the cap assembly is not set to be snug enough but my steps above should fix it.

    Good luck
    Nothing worse than printing half a roll with perfect nozzle check only to have missing nozzles the next day.
     
  3. thewood

    thewood Very Active Member

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    Thanks for the detailed reply 4R Graphics. I will check into that.

    Isn't there a way to adjust the capping station via the Service Menu like on the JV3?
     
  4. 4R Graphics

    4R Graphics Active Member

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    Im not sure about the service menu adjustment never even checked.
     
  5. StopSignGraphics

    StopSignGraphics Active Member

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    Before you make any adjustments, you might want to try popping it out and putting it back in. I'm not suggesting you don't need to adjust but it may be simply not aligned properly. They can be a little tricky to put back in correctly.

    My two cents.

    Thanks,
    Chris
     
  6. Out There

    Out There Member

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    Sep 24, 2011
    Washington
    Capping station PDF

    If you or any else is still looking for info on adjusting your capping station here ya go.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. thewood

    thewood Very Active Member

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    Awesome, Out There! This is exactly what I've been searching for.

    Thanks to everyone who replied.
     
  8. Out There

    Out There Member

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    You're probably aware, but for those who are not, you'll have to completely shut down the machine by turning off the main power. Then hold down, at the same time the "function" and "remote" buttons while turning the main power back on. Keep those two buttons down until the machine beeps. It will bring up a few more options under the function button.

    Also, the head will travel from one side to the other, so be sure it wont strike anything.

    I also have the maintenance manual if needed.
     
  9. thewood

    thewood Very Active Member

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    I would like to have a copy of the Maintenance Manual. If you don't want to post it here, I can PM you with my email address.

    Thanks again!
     
  10. Out There

    Out There Member

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    I'll try and post it here. Was not sure how big a file I could put up.
     
  11. Out There

    Out There Member

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    Hmm...Says it's too large. Better PM me.
     
  12. Atari

    Atari Member

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    The entire flat metal platform that the capping station assembly is on is adjustable by a single hex bolt (after loosening two phillips head screws).

    This will allow you to raise/lower the right side of the capping station. Of course if it's too low, you'll might be sucking air.

    There's also an #ADJUST setting > CAPPING which will allow you to set how far to the right the print head will "park" itself when resting on the capping station. Of course the more to the right it goes, the tighter seal you should have?

    But I imagine you just want to go to the point of where it seals and not more.

    You can see an image of the platform adjustment this thread:
    JV33 capping station seal issue? New cap top, pump & base. How to align?


    I'm starting to suspect that a huge number of issues with Mimakis and this specific capping station assembly are due to a bad seal with the capping station.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  13. Solventinkjet

    Solventinkjet Former Merchant Member

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    You should never need to adjust your capping height on the JV33 and CJV30s. In my almost 10 years as a certified Mimaki tech, I have never done it once. Normally when your are sucking air it is due to the cap top just being worn out, dirty and/or the bottom of the head is dirty and causing the seal to break. That's 99% of the time. The 1% is usually either a pump/tube has broken or, more commonly, the slider is worn down and needs to be replaced. The capping height should be done at the factory and basically never touched again. Also, a very common issue I run into is people forget to take the rubber stopper off the old cap top and put it on the new one. If that isn't on there, you will suck air no matter what.
     
  14. Atari

    Atari Member

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    My problem is:

    - capping base / frame new (so slider and spring are new)
    - capping top new (blue rubber factory cap on 3rd outlet is in place)
    - pump new
    - pump hoses all new (including those 2 from cap top to coupler)
    - pump cleaning cycle works 100%
    - Print head had been removed and flushed & surface very clean
    - Followed the guide for ADJUST > Capping (3 mm from top turn, etc)

    Annnnd... still sucks air with colors dropped out.

    I got a little closer by loosening the 2 screws that hold the capping station BASE/FRAME down and pulling the frame towards me/front of printer as much as possible. Now instead of nearly free air leak, it's about 10% air leak and I can actually pull ink through the waste line now (with one capped & cartridge valves open).

    No fun because over the past few days that I've been playing with this I see that the print head itself is actually OK. At different times every channel has had pretty good test draws. I just get complete drop outs of colors because the cap top isn't sealing well.
     
  15. Atari

    Atari Member

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    I figured out another hacky way to test the capping stations ability to seal or not. During a pump cleaning, you can move the carriage back on top and off of the cap top again. You can see the discs on the dampers suck in when it makes a good seal.

    At this point I'm going to try my cruddy old capping station frame and a different cap top.
     
  16. Atari

    Atari Member

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    I'm thinking it might have something to do with this gasket that is inside the print head...

    [​IMG]
    (this is not the inside of mine, but I had it apart at one point)
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Or a crack in manifold, but I pressure tested every port manually so probably not that.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Atari

    Atari Member

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    Sacramento, CA
    I have an old Epson R2880 (uses same/similar 8x180 nozzle DX5 head) that I think I'll harvest the manifold and gasket from tomorrow.

    Maybe I'll just throw that whole R2880 head assembly on there and see what happens. Any guesses? :)
     
  19. OmegaAdv

    OmegaAdv Member

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    Sep 8, 2015
    Bulgaria
    NOoo! Dont do it! Once I did that with dx4 manifold....You will get rubbish and old ink inside the head!
     
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