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Install printed clear vinyl on 2nd surface of clear acrylic

JoeBoomer

New Member
I have graphics that I printed on Avery 1060 clear vinyl. I am mounting them to the 2nd surface of clear acrylic. I am using my laminator to mount, but the 1" hinge that I do by hand to start it looks like crap because of air bubbles.

Any tips on getting this to look better?


1 - Should I wet mount?
2 - Should I tape the hinge so it is more rigid?
???

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks team!
 

jfiscus

Rap Master
I have wet-mounted 2nd surface/1st surface clear (for lighted signs) in the past with no problems... no idea what material it was anymore though.
 

Malkin

New Member
Yes to wet mount. It helps if the decal is oversized so that you don't have to worry as much about fingerprints.

FYI, DO NOT use any IPA to clean the acrylic, most especially if the edges were flame polished......
 

AceSignsOnline

New Member
JoeBoomer,

Have you considered using the lam rollers as your hinge? I know this can be a problem if you're working with small substrates, but for larger ones, it is simple to manage.

One thing to consider, though... A lot of laminators build up a lot of static and attract dust, making it nearly impossible to keep contamination from getting underneath your vinyl. It usually isn't enough to worry about with typical mounting, but I've pretty much given up on mounting 2nd surface with a laminator due to the static/dust issue. And believe me, I take any and all measures to keep our vinyl room contamination-free!

Anyway, good luck. Let us know how it goes.
 

sballinger

New Member
I use a sintra or plexi leader about 12" long. Tape my prints to the leader so the bubbles show up on the leader not the final piece. Just make sure to use a decent tape when attaching the leader to the acrylic (duct tape works for me)
 

bulldozer

New Member
i use rapidtac, but be careful not to use too much as it will develop a milk color which defeats the whole purpose.
 

Biker Scout

New Member
I have an ongoing contract with a kiosk builder to make 80 second surface signs every week. I use my mounter. I have a sticky roller and microfiber cloths.

There are two ways to do this. The scrap of leader board (has to be the same thickness) or use the mounter as your hinge hold down. That's the method I use on this guys signs. Watch any video on how a RollsRoller works to see the proper technique.

Place everything in your laminator lined up, then roll it in about 6". Peel up the vinyl graphic so it lays up over the roll, about halfway is fine. Tuck the paper under its self, reverse the laminator. Place acrylic back into laminator flip the graphic over and grab that piece of paper that got folded over. Hit the forward button and hang on to the paper and try not to let it get sucked in to the laminator. Keeping the paper liner as close to the nip or pinch point is key in not attracting too much dust.

Get a bunch of ball chain and hang them from strategic points on your laminator to the ground. You can even have them touch the workpiece. That should kill some of the electrostatic charge your tesla coil laminator is building up.
 

shoresigns

New Member
I haven't tried all these laminator methods with sleds, leaders, hand-applied hinges and whatnot, but they all sound difficult.

As someone else mentioned, just hinge the graphic in the centre on your laminator. Just zip through the first half, flip it around and do it again. It works for practically any size over 8"x8". If you're getting dust, just slow down the laminator so you can wipe the substrate as it feeds in.

We even do long narrow pieces like 12"x96" with a 1/4" bleed - no noticeable shifting in the alignment.
 

eahicks

Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
Oversize your print, use a sled.

I've literally done thousands of pieces like this.

I've explained it recently....maybe it can be found through a search.


+1. Leave extra blank material on 1 edge to tape hinge to the sled. Wet sucks.
 
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