Issue cutting ACM on Kongsberg i-XL24

[GraphicsSource]

Hey guys,

So we have a Kongsberg flatbed cutter/router and I can't seem to get consistent cuts on ACM. I'm using cutgurus m2-606u because the router spindle can't properly spin to speed with the single flute version. I'm running it at about 50k RPMS and quite slow.

The new bit will cut pretty decent but will begin to decline in quality after just 2-3 cuts. Am I doing something wrong? Can't seem to figure this thing out. Thanks in advance!

-Matt

 

[Ghost Prophet]

Might just be your bit. Try this one.

Also 50k is overkill, you should be able to cut fine at 30k and will have less issues with the plastics jamming up your module over time from melting. I prefer 3 pass so there's less chance for problems to arrise but you can get the same edge at 1 pass, with a little more cleanup involved.

Good luck.

 

[SignProPlus-Alex]

I am cutting 3mm ACM single pass with .125 single flute at 125 inch/min 12000-15000 rpm.

 

[J Hill Designs]

+1 50k rpm is way overkill unless you are running 100 FPM+

 

[ChrisN]

I use a 3mm upcut, 200 ipm @ 40k rpm, 2 pass for less cleanup. That gives about a 0.005" chipload. Vortex tool has a nice chipload chart that I use, here is a link.

 

[AhearnSignsJimmy]

ACM Questions

When you say 2-pass, are you running 2 passes at the same depth or multi-depth (halfway through, then the rest)?

Also, do you run clockwise or counter-clockwise?

I currently use CutGuru's M1-406U Bit at .005-.007 chipload but I have also tried double flutes and Esko bits.

I have no problem cutting .040" aluminum but ACM has been an issue. It could be the quality of the material (we use MAX Metal single print side) since the print side typically cuts pretty clean. The bottom piece of aluminum typically gets pinged down (towards the table, away from the material).

I've been experimenting with different bits, speeds, #of passes, directions on my kongsberg but consist quality and bit durability are still the main issues.

 

[ChrisN]

1 pass half way through, the other the whole way.

I run my bits conventional cutting, which is having the tool move around the part counter-clockwise if your spindle spins clockwise. I have found that this works much better for metal, foam, plastics, etc. than climb cutting, which is what I would have learned from my days of programming a woodworking CNC router. Conventional cutting pulls all the fuzzies away from the part, leaving a much cleaner edge. Climb cutting is more for woodworking, and prevents chip-out due to the grain of the wood.

Just this morning, I routed some parts using a 4mm upcut (I think it is from CutGuru), at 200ipm & 40k rpm, cutting in 2 passes. There were no burrs on either side of the finished pieces. If you are getting burrs on the bottom side of the piece using an upcut bit, something is wrong. Could you post some pics of your pieces?

 

[JHeineck]

You can get inconsistency with cut quality and life expectancy when using the cheaper bits. A lot of people will use the Zund bits with their Gerber and Eskos to get better results. Check out the webshop to narrow down which consumable to use with certain materials. www.shop.zund.com

 

[asd]

thank you guys for sharing these knowledge, yesterday i routed out some pvc letters and I noticed the bottom edge did not come out clean as usual, but I thought it was because I was running a straight cut bit instead of a upcut spiral. I will try some of these steps tomorrow on clear acrylic and see how clean the edges come out