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JV33 No print at all/No test print

Discussion in 'Mimaki' started by Andrew Signs, Dec 30, 2017.

  1. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
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    Hi,

    I picked up a JV33 recently and have been working through putting it back together and getting it functional.

    I have replaced most of the items that were of concern and got it running. Weird bit is now, with everything working, it won't print at all. No test print or print from RIP. What's unusual is that it goes through the motions of printing toad it is getting all the right signals to print, just not shooting ink.

    When you do a ink fill or anything like that ink does come through the lines etc which confirms capping and pump work.

    Below is what has been replaced and/or repaired.

    - New head
    - New head cables
    - New power supply board
    - New Main PCB
    - New Dampers
    - New Pump & lines
    - New cap/station

    I have confirmed all ribbons/cables are connected correctly.

    I did a search around and found a few posts but with no clear answer or result. Has anyone else encounter this problem? I can only presume that the slider board is not sending the 'ink' trigger ad everything else is repaired or replaced?

    Also to confirm, the printer itself functions in every other way perfectly (head assembly movement, ink pulls, pump, no errors on screen etc)

    Thanks!
     
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  2. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    Have you confirmed ink at the head..manually suck some through the capping station with a syringe..you will need
    a "Y" connector to hook the two hoses together... also check the 3.75mA fuse on your mainboard
     
  3. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Hi Terry,

    Yes I confirmed ink at the head. Also if I do a ink full through the front screen I can see ink pull, and also see it pull excess through the pump hoses.

    I will check out the fuse today...is that the big or little one? Im presuming that fuse isn't just for shooting ink? The printer functions completely except when it prints not ink. All movement, media detect etc fires up and works.
     
  4. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    Small white one up below the two capacitors between the 1st and second ribbon on the right hand side at top of board
     
  5. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    new zealand
     

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  6. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    If you fitted a new board, that fuse may not have been supplied in the board..check your old board.
    Think it is error 7 from memory if anything wrong with the head or sliderboard,, the blown fuse doesn't show in errors
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2017
  7. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
    Australia
    Hi Terry,

    Thanks for all the information, I will check it out today.

    What I find weird is the printer functions completely except shooting ink? I presume that fuse wouldn't be just for the ink release etc or is it?

    Thanks
     
  8. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
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    To add to my reply,

    In the research I have done around the forum there has been a handful of mimaki users have similar problems and noted that a transistor on the slider board has blow so was stuck in the 'off' position meaning the printer functions but does not go to on to open ink. These people also noted that there was not errors on screen while this was the case.

    Have you heard of this?
     
  9. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    new zealand
    mobile number??
     
  10. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
    Australia
    Little update.

    - Checked fuses...my board looks a little different to the picture but did check the flow through of anything in the area.
    - Dropped off our slider board to our PCB repair guy who has fixed up some stuff for us before. He noted a little on/off transistor.
    - As of now he has let me know he is yet to find any faults on the board.


    So basically I am stuck. Completely functioning printer but no ink is shooting?

    Any ideas?
     
  11. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    Sorry about the photo..i just grabbed one off the net as a reference. to show location of fuse for the head..The one other problem I can think of is you have the wrong firmware for the head you have.
    You may need to downgrade your firmware.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
  12. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
    Australia
    Hi Terry,

    No worries it helped so thanks!

    Yes I tend to agree with the firmware. As I didn't install the head I'm not sure. Currently the machine is running 3.4 FW. I did trying but booting the machine and putting to 'Remote' then uploading 2.2 FW. It runs through to 100% percent then has a MRL error which I believe is roughly translated into data cannot be understood.

    Is there a trick to update the FW...?
     
  13. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    The update tool should recognise what version you have and then ask do you wish install version#.. Anything version3 or below, should be fine for any head. 3.4 has to have green type connector and not locked.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  14. VanderJ

    VanderJ Merchant Member - Printer Parts and Sevice

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    The wrong firmware wouldn't stop the head from firing. It would just pop up with an error and won't let you print. In my 10 years of fixing these printers I would say 90% of the time when the printer works perfect except it doesn't fire a single nozzle and you know ink is flowing it's a blown fuse on the main board. I have also run into situations where my customer checked the fuse for continuity and they said it did but I told them to change the fuse anyway and it fixed the issue. The other 10% of the time, it's the electronics on the head that fail. Since it looks like you replaced a bunch of electrical parts it is very common to blow the fuse in these situations. It only takes one tiny little short to blow it. Even if you unplugged the machine before working on it, if you didn't wait for the machine to discharge, it can still blow the fuse.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. SightLine

    SightLine Very Active Member

    Yep - critical to wait at minimum 5 minutes, 15 is even safer after fully unplugging the power cord before ever disconnecting the head cables or really any other cables. The capacitors can hold a tiny bit of electrical charge for a bit and that can immediately fry some of the electronics. Firmware upgrades or downgrades you need to use the firmware update tool of course, then select the appropriate PRM file. Then boot the machine in the firmware upload/download mode. Version 2.2 is the best bet for initial testing and some of the newest heads, if not an OEM head with the green connector have newer "locks" from Epson. I'm not sure what the newest locked generic heads do. The first generation of locked heads would print but leave a gap even so many inches. Also agree - board fuses can show continuity when checked in place as there are other circuits involved with diodes, transistors, etc that can make a fuse seem find when checked in circuit. The only way to be certain is to remove the fuse from the circuit when testing it.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  16. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Nov 24, 2017
    Australia
    Thanks for the replies!

    I will go through fuses later today and have a look. From memory I think there is a big and small fuse on the bottom right which I will replace.

    The other thing I have noticed is that when the dampers are primed and you do a ink fill it seems to take the ink from the dampers but doesn't hold the 'fill' level. Visually to me it seems as if the ink cart is not opening the lines therefore only using the ink in the dampers/line. This would create a weird pressure. Is there a setting or parameter to look at for the cart open. If I manually open the cart I can pull ink etc.

    The FW is still causing dramas. When I use the tool is seems complete 100% then cause a MRL error. Will keep trying.

    Thanks!
     
  17. C5 Service&Repair

    C5 Service&Repair Member

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    It isnt the big fuse, just the tiny white one. Yes, the machine will function perfectly except fire ink because of the small white fuse. That is its only purpose, to protect the head from static or working on the PCBs without proper grounding. When it pops, it cuts the 41v that the head needs to fire. So all the motors and menus work fine, and the head is just along for the ride because there is no voltage getting to it for it to fire.
    Provided you did everything else correctly, got the parameters off of the old board and installed into the new board and didnt fry any PCBs or the head while changing them, its the small white fuse. Use the Volt meter on the continuity setting (beeps when you touch the leads together) and put a lead on each side of the white fuse. If it beeps, its good. If it doesnt then its popped. Change the fuse and try again. If it pops again, then you fried a board or then head.
     
  18. Andrew Signs

    Andrew Signs Member

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    Thanks C5 Service&Repair...

    Just to confirm on the JV33 there is the big and then little white fuse on the Power supply board...not on the main board? Or is there is white one on the main board?

    If so...were is it?


    Thanks
     
  19. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    IMG_20180117_061727.jpg In the photo i posted earlier, it shows you the location of the fuse. If you look on the Sign-in-China website at the fuse and the fuse holder. the fuse fits into that holder.
    https://www.sign-in-china.com/s/jv33_fuse.html
    Here is a photo of mine, to give you a better look at it. The head fuse is the one up near the 2 capacitors above the cables..
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  20. Terry01

    Terry01 Member

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    Head fuse
     

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