In my opinion, the bricks at the bottom should not be used for attachment. That little double wall (no doubt made from hollow bricks) should be viewed as decorative. It will hold weight, but it will not hold up against sideways pressure, that is, back and forth pressure from front and back. Even without vandalism, and even with an attachment to the column on the right, wind movement will be enough to break bricks loose. Assuming the sign will be braced by a frame, the vertical left edge of the sign with its hardware into the brick will act as a pry bar. The lower left attachment will break loose first.
I am assuming any hardware to be used will penetrate the rowlock bricks at the top of the base and go as far as possible into the bricks underneath. Attachment to the rowlocks alone should not even be considered, in my opinion. Eight, ten and twelve-inch wedge anchors are available, but I am skeptical that they will tighten down solid at every penetration into hollow bricks. Even so, it may still be a weak installation and may not stay solid.
Having said all that, I have been proven wrong before.
Two posts behind the base is the easiest way to make this a solid installation, as skyhigh mentioned. An attachment to the column would not even be necessary. Next best thing would be adding a second column, or starting over, both of which would be expensive.
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BRICK BASES
Ideally, the best way to do signs with brick bases and/or columns is to prepare way ahead of time, before you even get your first job requiring brick. The hardest part may be finding a brickmason who will even do the work. Most of them consider a job like this to be a pain in the rear. Many don't know how to price it to make money. It's easier to bid 10 or 15 thousand brick than 350. Consequently, many avoid these little jobs.
Once you find someone who will do it, you can show them a drawing or two to find out their preferences.
If a sign is to be supported by posts, the posts can be installed early, along with the pad for the bricks. Or posts can be bolted to the pad after it's poured. J-bolts into the pad when it's poured can make this easier. Brick work can be done after the posts are in place. I've had bricklayers tell me they will lay the brick around the posts to my dimensions and then I can set the sign. Others have told me to set the sign and they will brick up to it. I think most can do it either way, unless they're newbs. In either case, if they see your drawing, they can make adjustments to your dimensions to make them brick-friendly.
Obviously, this kind of preparation was not possible for Mastermatt87. The bricks were in place before he even got the job.
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I wonder a little about the experience of the brick guy who built the base. Surely he knew it was for a sign. Maybe he has done very little sign work. Or perhaps he was given detailed instructions by a building owner and he just did what he was told, figuring that setting the sign was not his problem.
And I guess it's not.
Brad in Kansas City
