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Need Advice on how to cut acrylic sheets with circular saw

0igo

New Member
I know I am setting myself up for a few jokes lol, but I need help making cuts on 4x8 sheets of acrylic with a circular saw. I'm trying to cut a 2x8 board out of the 4x8 but i cant do it without the saw cracking the acrylic. What method do you guys use for cutting acrylic with a circular saw?
 

BigfishDM

Merchant Member
I know I am setting myself up for a few jokes lol, but I need help making cuts on 4x8 sheets of acrylic with a circular saw. I'm trying to cut a 2x8 board out of the 4x8 but i cant do it without the saw cracking the acrylic. What method do you guys use for cutting acrylic with a circular saw?

There are special blades designed expressly for acrylic, but any metal-cutting blade with carbide tips can do the trick.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
One of the problems is you need at least an 80 tooth blade, like for cutting paneling. Also, it's always safer to cut poly or modified with a circular saw, NOT acrylic. Acrylic should be scored and then snapped.

Ya know, Home Depot will cut the plastic for you..... over in aisle 28 right behind the key cutter. :pops_blinking:
 

Billct2

Active Member
Yep, definitely a fine tooth blade with lots of teeth, preferably one made for plastic. When I worked at one place we would have scrap insulation 2 or 3" foamboard to use as support while cutting. Helps to cut down the vibration/stress. Depending on the quality of the cut you need and your skill a jigsaw can also be used and a router. If it's thin enough score & snap like Gino said.
 

JTBoh

I sell signage and signage accessories.
Table saw with 1/4" of blade works better than a circ saw, if you have that option.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Another thing you want to take into consideration....... Hopefully, you're not using a battery powered saw. You should look for a saw around 15 amps. I'm not sure how the conversion works for amps vs, volts, but you want that thing having good power.
 
One of the problems is you need at least an 80 tooth blade, like for cutting paneling. Also, it's always safer to cut poly or modified with a circular saw, NOT acrylic. Acrylic should be scored and then snapped.

Ya know, Home Depot will cut the plastic for you..... over in aisle 28 right behind the key cutter. :pops_blinking:
Our key cutters are in the front of the store at home depot. Lowes is in the back. Just wanted to clarify for CA residents.

To the OP you need the appropriate blade. Also ensure your material is not vibrating as you cut.
 

d fleming

New Member
Triple chip carbide with tons of teeth. Good strong saw, clamped on straight edge, cover board if necessary. One of the first tools I purchased when opening the doors was a panel saw. That and a large table saw are pretty much must haves.
 

2B

Active Member
the biggest thing we found is the vibrations and the number of teeth on the blade
Take a 2 x 4 on top of the acrylic and clamp the wood, acrylic to a table or another 2 x 4

if you do not have an acrylic blade, then a high tooth finishing blade will work
 

signbrad

New Member
One of the first tools I purchased when opening the doors was a panel saw.

Once you buy a panel saw you will wonder how you ever got along without it. It was easily the most useful tool I owned. My blade was carbide tipped, either 80 or 100 teeth. A Safety Speedcut uses an 8-inch blade.

The foam board is a good idea, too. For many years I bought blue foam, 4"x24"x96", from a kayak builders supply. With two of the foam chunks laid side by side for support under a 4x8 sheet of acrylic, I could easily make long cuts with a circular saw, or cut out letters in both acrylic and aluminum with a sabre saw.

Brad in Kansas City
 

3Dee

New Member
reverse the blade in your saw
carbide blade
set depth of blade slightly deeper than material
go slow with material flat on edge of a board or on a sheet of styrofoam
see how that works for you

I sometimes find myself on jobsites cutting panels to size using a ridgid cordless saw
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
Track saw system is great for accurate cuts.
blade.jpg
 

0igo

New Member
Thank you everyone for all the help. I went out and bought a blade with more teeth (120). Haven't used it yet but will do try it out in the morning. I was looking for the plexiglass/plastic blade but can't find it at my local hardware stores.

Last question, when cutting with a circular saw do you guys go fast on the cuts or slow?
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Full speed, but you let the saw/blade do the cutting. Do not move the saw through fast. As in cutting anything, you let the tools do the ciutting, don't force anything. Keep it level and supported the whole way though, also.
 

dale911

President
I agree with the diablo blades. Makes a world of difference to have the right blade for the job. I have a metal sblade for my table saw that is designed for plastics and thin metals like aluminum and when I cut di-bond, it looks like a factory edge. Not a single splinter or anything. Spend the $60 or whatever for the blade. Diablo is one of the best brands you can get locally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Cynosure

New Member
I found even with the higher teeth count, 3/16" acrylic cuts just fine but the thinner 1/8" helps to have the foam braces for stability like everyone says.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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