Need some out of the box thinking on vinyl cutting/application

[czwalga]

So right now my current process to apply the vinyl is print, cut, apply. However it's very difficult applying the front wrap after the vinyl has been cut. It's pretty weak around the numbers. (see pictures) The vinyl can stretch, wrinkle etc. I'm pretty good at it and very rarely do I make a mistake. But it does take a while working it around the numbers. Unfortunately I'm the only person at my shop able to do it successfully. Part of that is experience, but a lot of it is a poor process.


What I would like to do is apply the wrap over the entire surface, then cut while its on the board, and peel off the vinyl that goes over the numbers. I have a CNC laser cutter and did this pretty successfully, but then I read you should never cut vinyl with a laser cutter because of the offgassing can ruin the parts and bad to breath.


So I'm looking for any ideas to improve this process. Would be willing to spend money to improve the process, but not a crazy large amount. Even if it was some sort of crude stamp cutter. I'm looking to save time and make the process easier.


Any ideas would be appreciated.


The first picture is a printed vinyl wrap. That goes over the numbers. The second picture shows what the vinyl is cutout to go over. The red board is just painted, with no vinyl.

 

[Jester1167]

My first thought is why don't you just install the vinyl then hand trim, but I'm guessing you have a lot of these to do and are looking to streamline the process and eliminate mistakes. I would try print, cut, then mask with clear and install. The clear mask will stabilize the center of the numbers and you will be able to see through it for a tight registration.

 

[BigfishDM]

What kind of vinyl are you using? You should be fine cutting around the numbers once its on your board.

 

[eahicks]

If you are using premask to lay the vinyl, I don't see what the issue would be.

 

[henryz]

Looks very nice, have you tried masking the printed vinyl after is cut with a clear film so you can line it up perfectly, sounded like you weren't masking before since the cut out numbers are flimsy? If you can remove the digital board maybe you can print with a flatbed printer? you should be able to register it with a jig.

 

[czwalga]

Sorry, I'm pretty much a sign newbie. I'm not a sign shop we only do these boards. I'm not sure what premask is? We just apply the vinyl directly to the finished wood, then spray an acrylic lacquer over everything when finished. Basically I align the graphic on the board. Pull back about 3" of masking paper and cut the paper. Then apply that 3" to the board. Then use a 24" squeegee and push the rest on. I can do a board without a digital scoreboard in 2-3 minutes. I wish I had a video to show my current process.


Also, handcutting these is extremely cumbersome; I'd rather just do it the way I'm doing it now versus handcutting. I cut the number slots on a vinyl cutter. I'm sure this goes against all sign cutting standard procedure... but I have a vinyl cutter setup to cut through the paper on purpose. This way I can see exactly where I am to line everything up.



Edit: Read what premasking is. Yeah we don't really do it. I might try with clear and see what happens. The board is not 100% flat surface so we'll see if the vinyl around the numberswill want to pull up.

 

[TXFB.INS]

Personally, I can't stand painting so I would print, lam and stick then I would come back and trim the openings.

the LED openings are straight cut, so using s sharp scalpel will go very fast


otherwise, the use of a clear premask will greatly help in alignment

 

[Johnny Best]

clear mask as everyone suggested and since you are cutting the backing paper also will make aligning a lot easier. Use the same method you use now for appyling with cutting back 3" and 24" squeegeeing down. The clear premask will hold all your cut outs to prevent the weakness you have without it. But in my opinion if it only takes you 2 or 3 minutes and they come out good why change horses now because adding an extra step with putting the clear mask on will add to the time.

 

[czwalga]

Personally, I can't stand painting so I would print, lam and stick then I would come back and trim the openings.

the LED openings are straight cut, so using s sharp scalpel will go very fast


otherwise, the use of a clear premask will greatly help in alignment

There's 28 openings per set. If we handcut everything we'd be out of business haha. Also the corners are curved. We could straight cut them, but in comparison to what we do now it took longer and looked worse.

 

[czwalga]

clear mask as everyone suggested and since you are cutting the backing paper also will make aligning a lot easier. Use the same method you use now for appyling with cutting back 3" and 24" squeegeeing down. The clear premask will hold all your cut outs to prevent the weakness you have without it. But in my opinion if it only takes you 2 or 3 minutes and they come out good why change horses now because adding an extra step with putting the clear mask on will add to the time.

I think that's what I'm going to try. It's a good suggestion. It takes me 2-3 minutes to do a board without the digital scoreboards. To do it with the digital scoreboard takes me probably 10 minutes.


Really i'd just like a method so others can do it easier without ruining so many prints. When I do them I might ruin 1 out of every 50 if that.




I'd still be interested in hearing if anyone has other ideas to cut the vinyl while it's applied to the board (not manually). It would save time on the front end with alignment.

 

[czwalga]

nm

 

[signcrafters london]

Who buys cornhole boards with scoreboards? Getting drunk and trying to remember the score is half the fun.

 

[MikePro]

i'd say the most streamlined process would be direct printing the board and routing it. cuts out the cost of vinyl&application, could offset the cost of outsourcing the print to a flatbed and save you time overall.

 

[eahicks]

Sorry, I'm pretty much a sign newbie. I'm not a sign shop we only do these boards. I'm not sure what premask is? We just apply the vinyl directly to the finished wood, then spray an acrylic lacquer over everything when finished. Basically I align the graphic on the board. Pull back about 3" of masking paper and cut the paper. Then apply that 3" to the board. Then use a 24" squeegee and push the rest on. I can do a board without a digital scoreboard in 2-3 minutes. I wish I had a video to show my current process.


Also, handcutting these is extremely cumbersome; I'd rather just do it the way I'm doing it now versus handcutting. I cut the number slots on a vinyl cutter. I'm sure this goes against all sign cutting standard procedure... but I have a vinyl cutter setup to cut through the paper on purpose. This way I can see exactly where I am to line everything up.



Edit: Read what premasking is. Yeah we don't really do it. I might try with clear and see what happens. The board is not 100% flat surface so we'll see if the vinyl around the numberswill want to pull up.

How are you installing these without premasking?? No wonder you have issues. A large piece of vinyl with holes in it is certainly problematic.

 

[AKwrapguy]

Might have an idea, but need to know what type of equipment you have, printer, laminator, etc... and what type of material/laminate you use.

 

[czwalga]

Might have an idea, but need to know what type of equipment you have, printer, laminator, etc... and what type of material/laminate you use.

It's a 48" ecosol, 3M IJ 35C. Graphtec 42" cutter. 53" CNC laser cutter. No laminate. We spray clearcoat on all boards vs laminate.

 

[czwalga]

How are you installing these without premasking?? No wonder you have issues. A large piece of vinyl with holes in it is certainly problematic.

Can you explain what the premasking is going to do for me? I'm not being snarky I'm just not an expert here.


I do it similar to this on the video.
Installing a cornhole wrap - The easy way - YouTube (Without the digital scoreboard)


With the scoreboard I do it the same way, just go a little slower around the numbers.

 

[signcrafters london]

They suggested premask because they thought you cut the numbers out of the vinyl on a plotter before application. You are applying the print in one piece, so you don't need. it.

 

[Johnny Best]

You will be able to line up where your numbers are if you are using the clear. If you did not have the numbers, and that seems to be the problem, then your video is the way to go. What kind of material are you using for your print.

 

[czwalga]

You will be able to line up where your numbers are if you are using the clear. If you did not have the numbers, and that seems to be the problem, then your video is the way to go. What kind of material are you using for your print.

Right, I do both. I'm the only one with the built in digital scoreboards though so I kind of have to invent the process. 3M IJ 35C


I just bought some clear light tack transfer tape. I'm going to try and just stick that portion over the numbers after I cut it. This in theory should help keep the cut section together with extra support while I apply the wrap. Then pull it off after. We'll see if it works.