Opinion on hanging 3/4" 4x8 pvc panels

[letterman7]

Ok, here's the deal. Customer wants 6 large (4' x 8') panels mounted on an interior wall just above shoulder height. They want something "dimensional", the panels will have a full coverage digital print. The wall is solid high compression concrete... think bomb shelter stuff. Initially they wanted panels mounted on stand-offs, 8 per panel, but I'm not a fan of drilling that many holes into that type of concrete. So, my next thought was 3/4 or 1" pvc with a routed edge to give it some visual appeal with a Z clip style metal French cleat on the back secured with 1/2" screws into the pvc - running full width.

My only real concern is the weight pulling on the screws.... anyone feel they might eventually let go?

Rick

 

[Billct2]

Inside I'd probably use gatorfoam, if it needs an edge treatment I'd add some plastic trim/molding.Then it would be possible to hang using cleats with VHB & adhesive, with maybe a few screws for insurance

 

[letterman7]

Not feeling the gator. I know where you're going with it Bill, but I'm looking for a profiled edge.

 

[ams]

VHB doesn't bond to PVC so beware of that. If you screw 1/2" into the PVC and also glue it in, that will give it double support and be better. Stand offs is the way to go.

 

[Gino]

I like the idea of gator, too.

If you use the the correct tape, it sticks just fine to PVC. we do it all the time, however not to concrete walls. My real concern is how are the walls finished off ?? With paint, wallpaper something else ?? That's what you'd hafta worry about something sticking to. 3/4" PVC is very heavy and without physical fasteners, I wouldn't feel safe.

We're in the process of doing some 3' × 6' PVC panels on some walls with 1" and 1/2" cut out PVC letters applied to the 6mm PVC. It has a lotta weight and we're using standoffs on sheet rock walls. We're also hot gluing some 3/4" gator at strategic places on the back with double sided tape for a little insurance to the wall, but that is not the main source hold ing it up.

You could bend some aluminum with 1" lips and just use the French cleat method and be done with it.

 

[letterman7]

The walls will just be painted. With what, I don't know. It's a firing range, so I'm going to guess something simple and with a gloss. I don't plan on taping anything to the pvc.. as mentioned, it won't hold. Hence my thoughts on screwing a full length cleat to the back. Now I'm thinking to reduce the weight to clearance rout a large portion of the back side away, leaving a "frame" to mount the cleat rail..... hmm....

 

[Johnny Best]

I think the 1/2" screws with the z clips would be the best way with 3/4" or 1'' pvc, but like ams said using construction adhesive with it would be more secure because a 4x8 sheet does have a lot of weight. I use 6mm french cleats hanging by ripping them on a table saw to achieve the 45 degree angles (use a 6" wide x 7' and produce a set when ripped in half) and pvc glue and screws to the back, then they are really secured and can hold the weight.
Standoffs are ok but lining all those up and then you have all those #8 "knobs" sticking out and is a two man install, the french cleats can be accomplished by one person and less precision holes drilled than standoffs.
I would go 10mm pvc with routed edge, pvc french cleats top with 6mm x 2"x7' black strip (spray paint flat black or purchase 6mm black pvc for cleats and strips) with VHB on bottom back for rigidity and secure to wall after cleat is snug and level on top. They will have a floating look off the wall and will have a clean and level look. Not a display of standoffs all over the place. Also predrill countersink holes on cleat to wall and tapcons will work in the concrete to secure