-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Oracal 751 Over Rivits
- Thread starter mudmedia
- Start date
that is good to know then. Only reason I figured there might be is because with cut lettering I wouldnt have a "row" or "channel" open to rollepro just a couple rivets
J
john1
Guest
I always just apply, form a "tent" around the rivet and poke a few tiny holes and suck them in with a heat gun and squeegee around until it's how i want it.
Not super fast but i don't do wraps yet either so it works for the very few rivets i encounter.
Not super fast but i don't do wraps yet either so it works for the very few rivets i encounter.
SignStudent
New Member
What if it is die cut cast vinyl and you had to use transfer tape and you usually use rolle pro? Leave channels where the rivets are and take the tape off before messing working on the rivets I assume. Then just use rolle pro like normal? I'd be worried that without air release there would be issues.
OlsonSigns601
New Member
I would be worried too.
I wouldn't suggest using cast vinyl as a substitute for wrap material. If your graphic is so big that you have to have a channel, I wouldn't use 751.
If you are putting on lettering that might go over a rivet, 751 would be fine and a needle to release the air, a torch and a squeegee should be all you need.
I wouldn't suggest using cast vinyl as a substitute for wrap material. If your graphic is so big that you have to have a channel, I wouldn't use 751.
If you are putting on lettering that might go over a rivet, 751 would be fine and a needle to release the air, a torch and a squeegee should be all you need.
Border
New Member
Use the rolle pro on regular cast cut vinyl too. It will work great as long as you first create an escape hole for the air (I usually poke a couple holes on the bottom side of the rivet).
Sometime ya gotta pay attention because the poked hole can close back up before you hit it with the rolle pro when you throw the heat to it. That's when you can muck it up if you're not careful but like everything else, practice makes perfect.
Sometime ya gotta pay attention because the poked hole can close back up before you hit it with the rolle pro when you throw the heat to it. That's when you can muck it up if you're not careful but like everything else, practice makes perfect.
knucklehead
New Member
Poke a few holes around the rivet, use a tennis ball to set it. Heat if necessary.
OlsonSigns601
New Member
And Hydrogen without Oxygen is just Hydrogen and I wouldn't go using that to put out a fire.
Besides the air release, Cast & Wrap have a completely different adhesive tack.
Graphics2u
New Member
I just used the Rolle-pro on that very product and to be honest it didn't work well. This was on ribbed steel siding on construction trailers. the problem is if the vinyl gets stuck down anywhere along where you want to roll the air is trapped. Rivets might actually be easier than the ribs, i don't know. But the next three trailers I have to do will be with cast 3M w/ Comply adhesive. I think the air release has to be there for the Rolle-Pro to work well.
2B
Active Member
Rolle Pro, Rivets, and a Torch.....good times for sure. It's what I use whenever I do semi trailers. I always letter with 751. It takes practice but once you get it down and plan for the air escape, it's pretty simple.
WOW THAT IS PAINFUL, I feel like I need to charge someone just for looking at that
2B
Active Member
rivets and ribs, those are a horrible combo!