Oracal 751 Over Rivits

Pretty old school but a rivet brush is a great tool as well.

 

there is no difference between wrap materials and cast vinyl in your rivet technique.

 

I always just apply, form a "tent" around the rivet and poke a few tiny holes and suck them in with a heat gun and squeegee around until it's how i want it.

Not super fast but i don't do wraps yet either so it works for the very few rivets i encounter.

 

What if it is die cut cast vinyl and you had to use transfer tape and you usually use rolle pro? Leave channels where the rivets are and take the tape off before messing working on the rivets I assume. Then just use rolle pro like normal? I'd be worried that without air release there would be issues.

 

I would be worried too.

I wouldn't suggest using cast vinyl as a substitute for wrap material. If your graphic is so big that you have to have a channel, I wouldn't use 751.

If you are putting on lettering that might go over a rivet, 751 would be fine and a needle to release the air, a torch and a squeegee should be all you need.

 

probably need more practice but i get a crease with the rollepro
I get better results just using the rivet brush and squeegee

 

I use a hair dryer and a gold squeegee.
(I always hurt myself with heat guns)
Love....Jill

 

Use the rolle pro on regular cast cut vinyl too. It will work great as long as you first create an escape hole for the air (I usually poke a couple holes on the bottom side of the rivet).
Sometime ya gotta pay attention because the poked hole can close back up before you hit it with the rolle pro when you throw the heat to it. That's when you can muck it up if you're not careful but like everything else, practice makes perfect.

 

Poke a few holes around the rivet, use a tennis ball to set it. Heat if necessary.

 

And Hydrogen without Oxygen is just Hydrogen and I wouldn't go using that to put out a fire.

Besides the air release, Cast & Wrap have a completely different adhesive tack.

 

I just used the Rolle-pro on that very product and to be honest it didn't work well. This was on ribbed steel siding on construction trailers. the problem is if the vinyl gets stuck down anywhere along where you want to roll the air is trapped. Rivets might actually be easier than the ribs, i don't know. But the next three trailers I have to do will be with cast 3M w/ Comply adhesive. I think the air release has to be there for the Rolle-Pro to work well.

 

Rolle Pro, Rivets, and a Torch.....good times for sure. It's what I use whenever I do semi trailers. I always letter with 751. It takes practice but once you get it down and plan for the air escape, it's pretty simple.

 

Megacab ... That looks like a signmaker's nightmare ....

 

Nope, just a thing to do. Slowly.

 

lol. why is that? what am I missing? is it because it's only half the logo with the registration marks so it looks like a hideous design? or is it the rivets and ribs?

 

I was also talking about the rivets and ribs. That's a true test on someone's level of patience.