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Print media conversion

Discussion in 'Vinyl' started by JBurton, Aug 27, 2020.

  1. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Looking to get a roll of 3mij35c cut down to 40", but my distributor charges $45 plus significant lead time. Anybody have a recommended distributor who does this for them?
    Anybody use an outside source for better results?
     
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  2. James Burke

    James Burke Being a grandpa is more fun than working

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    I thought this thread was going to be about a regular roll of vinyl undergoing strong religious convictions....dang.


    JB
     
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  3. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Sure is! have you ever preached a roll of vinyl down to 40" from 60"? That's some seriously strong witnessing right there!
     
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  4. JetPress

    JetPress Member

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    I have never been able to get a roll of bad vinyl to convert.
     
  5. James Burke

    James Burke Being a grandpa is more fun than working

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    That's all fine, but I've seen several signs around here that have totally gone to hell...in one way or another.


    JB
     
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  6. jfiscus

    jfiscus Map Wraster

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    If this is something you do a lot, keep an eye out for a slitter. We bought one a few years ago and use it every day, we love it.
     
  7. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    I'd thought about rigging something on my laminator, but I don't think I'll get through the cardboard tube very easily. I'm currently debating taking half a roll to the table saw... It worked fine on some oversized banner material that Cooley mistakenly shipped for a sample. Something tells me the adhesive may be an issue there...
     
  8. WYLDGFI

    WYLDGFI Merchant Member

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    Grimco does at minimal charge. Otherwise get a good chop saw...nice new blade...MANY teeth and cut it yourself.
     
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  9. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Sounds like you've tried this...?
     
  10. WYLDGFI

    WYLDGFI Merchant Member

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    Weve done banner...not sticker. I think it would work. Just not sure how the adhesive will react with the heat from the cut and spinning blade. We put tape around the area where we cut so it doesnt unravel.

    Avery makes 48 inch rolls...2903 Gray Removable. Not sure if that helps any.
     
  11. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    I may consider a different material, but now I got that itch and just need to try something dumb! Yay for Fridays!!
    I was planning to hit the blade with the wax block thoroughly to keep it from sticking, and run some tape just like you said.
     
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  12. jfiscus

    jfiscus Map Wraster

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    Always tape up a roll well and tight before cutting or slitting.
    I don't think I would cut a print roll with a chop / circular saw though, just seems like too much dust.

    I could see a laminator being used in a pinch to manually slit a whole roll as you run it though.
     
  13. WYLDGFI

    WYLDGFI Merchant Member

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    Agreed....it can kick up some dust but I think its minimal. If the roll is still factory rolled, its tight and that will mitigate any dust on the printing surface. As for the laminator, you would expose the ENTIRE roll to the top rubber roller and dust just to achieve the desired width.
     
  14. MikePro

    MikePro Major Contributor

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    bandsaw would be ideal, table saw could work, BUT both would leave you with shredded edges so plan to workaround that if that's the way you're going about it.
    you will also be introducing dust particles from the cardboard tube to the 1-2" of that side of the print media, also worth consideration.
    ....and I would turn the roll as I cut thru it, don't just go straight-thru with a deep blade setting.

    if it were me, I would just send my roll to my local "Specialty Tapes" supplier... they have a setup that looks like a laminator with a meatslicer attached and cut-down rolls of adhesive-backed media, or just double-sided tape, all the time. they can even cut my double-sided acrylic bonding tape as thin as 1/8" if I requested, but I typically just have them cut down the 48" roll to 1/4", 1/2", 1"-12" stock rolls about once a year.
    ...but I don't know who the comparable business-type/name to make such a request in your area.
     
  15. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Sounds like you are very fortunate to have such a company local! I'll get to googling I suppose. I imagined a distributor would be the way to go, just to clear some shipping back and forth or what have you. I had not considered a totally different outfit.
    I have a 20' roll I'm going to give it a shot on. Hit it with the shopvac on the end before I take it to the print room.
     
  16. James Burke

    James Burke Being a grandpa is more fun than working

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    I know they make circular knife blades used for cutting down rolls...they're approx. 6" in diameter, very thin and razor sharp.

    If it were me, I would make a giant sized version of a flat bed copper tube cutter, utilizing the circular knife and some rubber rollers

    Basically....two rubber rollers on a frame approx. 4 inches on center. The roller in the back would be driven by a variable speed motor at low RPMs. The circular knife would be mounted to a bearing assembly on an arm that swings down like a chop saw. The knife "free wheels"...it is not under power. Stops would be required on the both ends of the roll to keep it from walking.

    The roll would need to rotate in a manner so it remains wound tight.

    The process might create some fine strings of vinyl/paper....but absolutely NO heat to melt the vinyl, or dust.

    I bet a guy could put one together for not a whole lot of money.


    The video is for a roll leaf cutter, but the cutting concept is the same. I still would prefer to keep the vinyl on rubber rollers instead of a mandrel.

    JB


     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2020
  17. netsol

    netsol Active Member

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    exactly, with the right blade & a delicate touch, should be no problem

    we use a variac when we want to adjust blade speed.

    just don't use the home depot house brand blades. he bought 2 or 3 avanti blades, they were dull before completing the first 8' cut
     
  18. netsol

    netsol Active Member

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    james, you are a man after my own heart. when i was 14 (1967) i started working in a factory/distribution facility before and after school, weekends and summers

    the point of my story is, i was the only one to leave that place with a full set of 10 fingers. on the bright side, i learned nothing from the experience and i will be right beside you when we are ready for testing

    regarding your design, i think you are wrong, i think we need to drive the cutting blade but have the ability to precisely vary the speed & experiment with feed rate
     
  19. James Burke

    James Burke Being a grandpa is more fun than working

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    Cool...my background is tool and die, and I started about the same age as you did.

    But in regards to cutter operation, I'll agree to disagree with you.

    A driven blade is nothing more than a saw, and it will induce all kinds of friction / heat. The contact (tangent) point of a free-wheeling circular blade will travel at the same surface feet per minute as the media, and the cutting action will be shearing...not sawing. Think of the cutting action of a pizza cutter....or an Olfa rotary cutter.

    I've yet to see a motorized Olfa....


    JB
     
  20. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Welp, I just turned on the saw, gave it a nice coat of wax, and hoped for the best. Came out decent. I know the fence on the saw is less than perfect, and once I loaded and ran it I got about 1/32 either way that it walks. Cut with an 18" Delta Rockwell radial arm saw, Amana 108 nonferrous metal cutting blade. Cut in about 1.5 seconds.
    Now for the dumb part. I don't think laminate is going to be as forgiving if I try the same thing... At least I'll be using some thicker laminate, but the adhesive is so much more aggressive I can imagine layer after layer trying to adhere to each other.
    Here's the picture. Please note, not my fingernails! The shredded outer layer is the nuclear duct tape. IMG_3356.JPG
     
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