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Vinyl wrinkles in Daige Solo Laminator Help?

Krittah

New Member
Hoping someone can tell me the trick I'm missing. I'm new to laminating, but I'm only using the Daige Solo to apply Oracal HT55 transfer tape to my Oracal 631 vinyl. I've used a big squeegee for years, works great, but want to expand to 48" rolls and eventually latex print material as well. So I'm hoping to get this laminator working for me to easily jump into wider roll production. Currently only have a 24 inch premask on laminator.

Here's the problem, the vinyl keeps getting wrinkled. It starts well, but wrinkles sometimes after a few feet and I do a lot of 10-15 ft lengths.

There doesn't seem to be many tutorials out there for just applying premask with a laminator. I feel like it should be simpler than laminating, but maybe not.

So what's the trick to get the vinyl to stay flat and smooth will laminating? I'm guessing something to do with the tension on the front media roller?

 

CarNate69

New Member
15 year daige user here - these laminators are finicky, but not impossible to use. We don't use one as our main laminators but as a masking machine they are good. Roller pressure should be cranked down to where they just touch each other, watch as they come down on each side and then adjust to make them evenly touching, then crank 1/4 turn on each side. Too much pressure is as bad as too little. Your material is bunching because you don't have a starter piece of material in the laminator, so any slight variation is going to cause a wrinkle. You also need to make completely sure your material is going in perfectly flat, this can be hard to do on a piece of material thats been weeded, so always leave yourself a solid edge of non-weeded vinyl on the end so you have enough structure in your material to push it flat and smooth when masking.

For the best results, you need to get a piece of scrap vinyl as wide as your application tape, and about 6"-10" wide. Feed this into the laminator to where it's started straight and flat, push the pedal at the perfect time as your pushing the material in at the same time. Having a solid edge is key so it must be vinyl that isn't weeded. Once you fed it in about half an inch, go around the back of the machine to pull the application tape up off the back of the deck so the material won't go down inside the machine. Press on the pedal again and keep the material going another few inches with the pedal. This will show you how the material will track briefly and if it will bunch up, if it did, you loaded it wrong or didn't get it started even, this takes practice, after going an inch or 2 more, leave about 2-3" of scrap material outside of the rollers sitting on the front deck where you'll feed in your next piece. Trim the sticky end off on the material on the rear deck so when your next piece of vinyl comes through, it will just push out the scrap piece.

This material that you leave on the front deck will be the material that acts as a cushion while you're feeding in your next run. You need to keep the machine primed with these pieces of material if you're laminating thin materials (that looks like weeded vinyl?) The thinner the material, the more critical having these feeder pieces in place. We keep them in ours at all times. At the end of every run, either mask more prints, butting it up to the previous run, or feed in your feeder piece to allow you to cut off the run on the back deck of the laminator. Have a stack of 36" x ~6" starter pieces of scrap material so you can feed these scraps in at the end of your runs that will setup the laminator for the next time you use it.

You need to get your hands right in the right places when pushing the print in and it needs to be flat, that's why pushing in weeded material is tough because it's almost never flat. Use the edges of the laminator to line up your prints to make sure it's at a good starting point and then push evenly. If you're going to send in fully weeded materials, you need to tape it to your starter sled so it goes in flat and straight. Make a weed border on your graphic and send in the hard edge with vinyl on it and you'll have more consistent results.
 

CarNate69

New Member
15 year daige user here - these laminators are finicky, but not impossible to use. We don't use one as our main laminators but as a masking machine they are good. Roller pressure should be cranked down to where they just touch each other, watch as they come down on each side and then adjust to make them evenly touching, then crank 1/4 turn on each side. Too much pressure is as bad as too little. Your material is bunching because you don't have a starter piece of material in the laminator, so any slight variation is going to cause a wrinkle. You also need to make completely sure your material is going in perfectly flat, this can be hard to do on a piece of material thats been weeded, so always leave yourself a solid edge of non-weeded vinyl on the end so you have enough structure in your material to push it flat and smooth when masking.

For the best results, you need to get a piece of scrap vinyl as wide as your application tape, and about 6"-10" wide. Feed this into the laminator to where it's started straight and flat, push the pedal at the perfect time as your pushing the material in at the same time. Having a solid edge is key so it must be vinyl that isn't weeded. Once you fed it in about half an inch, go around the back of the machine to pull the application tape up off the back of the deck so the material won't go down inside the machine. Press on the pedal again and keep the material going another few inches with the pedal. This will show you how the material will track briefly and if it will bunch up, if it did, you loaded it wrong or didn't get it started even, this takes practice, after going an inch or 2 more, leave about 2-3" of scrap material outside of the rollers sitting on the front deck where you'll feed in your next piece. Trim the sticky end off on the material on the rear deck so when your next piece of vinyl comes through, it will just push out the scrap piece.

This material that you leave on the front deck will be the material that acts as a cushion while you're feeding in your next run. You need to keep the machine primed with these pieces of material if you're laminating thin materials (that looks like weeded vinyl?) The thinner the material, the more critical having these feeder pieces in place. We keep them in ours at all times. At the end of every run, either mask more prints, butting it up to the previous run, or feed in your feeder piece to allow you to cut off the run on the back deck of the laminator. Have a stack of 36" x ~6" starter pieces of scrap material so you can feed these scraps in at the end of your runs that will setup the laminator for the next time you use it.

You need to get your hands right in the right places when pushing the print in and it needs to be flat, that's why pushing in weeded material is tough because it's almost never flat. Use the edges of the laminator to line up your prints to make sure it's at a good starting point and then push evenly. If you're going to send in fully weeded materials, you need to tape it to your starter sled so it goes in flat and straight. Make a weed border on your graphic and send in the hard edge with vinyl on it and you'll have more consistent results.

Edit: on cut vinyl, you shouldn't have this issue if you're feeding straight, have the starter sled and have the pressure right. We do it daily. It won't track very well on 15 foot runs though because you can't get it aligned well enough (unless you're really good or lucky) to be able to push it perfectly straight from the start. Hold the material flat pushing outwards on the mateiral about an inch out from the rollers with the starter sled underneath the main sheet, line it up on the front piece of metal on the machine edges on the left and right, and as you push the pedal, push outwards on the material and at the same time push it into the machine, if you time it right and the material is flat, you'll be good. Possibly try a little less pressure with application tape too. If you can leave a weed border around your material, weed out the inside vinyl first, and leave that outside border on there. When cutting, you can use the border to cut on as well, just cut off that section. The vinyl that's thicker will give you a better push into the laminator.
 

Krittah

New Member
Thanks so much stickercuttingcom, very useful information and a lot too unpack. I'll give a bunch of these suggestions a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I do believe it's how I'm initially starting the vinyl that is the problem. I've been using starter pieces, so I think a few more technique tweaks and I'll have it.
Also, I have a new Solo, with the lifting lever on the side, no cranks to adjust the pressure with.
Thanks again!
 

31legen

New Member
Great info sticker. Where were you 5 years ago. I used to use mine to premask 30" vinyl but got so tired of ruining prints time and time again. I bought a used gfp laminator and havent looked back. Sticker gave great info but if you can afford it, toss that thing in the dump and buy a cheap chinese laminator if thats all your using it for. You will get much more consistent results.
 

d fleming

New Member
When I used a daige in the past I always used a sled under entire piece I was running. Usually a sheet of thin pvc. Never used it for taping just laminating or mounting prints to solid substrate, lots of coro. Key was a good seam of tape at front edge to assure it started nice and flat. Made life much easier.
 

Krittah

New Member
Finally figured out the trick to make this work every time!!!
Grab a spare roll of transfer tape or similar and use it as a weight in front of the laminate rollers.
So I get about an inch of the vinyl in the rollers, stop, place the extra roll on top of the vinyl that is resting on the loading deck of the laminator. I then start the laminator again and lightly hold the sides of my extra roll as the vinyl rolls under it. This works every time for me, no more wrinkles. Also, make sure the leading edge of your print is a perfectly straight cut.
 

d fleming

New Member
People trash on Daige all the time but for what they cost and what limited things they are good for once you get the knack of it they do just fine.
 
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