Recent content by Smoke_Jaguar

Reading safety data sheets helps on inks. Sometimes, solvents that are hazardous get changed over to more benign substances. Stuff like pigments, stabilizers, flow agents and so on are also important. Some inks jet at higher temperatures or voltages, or require different heads. Sure, most of the...

I hate solvent ink smells with a passion, but I find Mimaki ES3 to be tolerable.

Pretty much got it, a proper flushing is the way to go. Cleaning cartridges are usually the way to go, just purge the old ink until the lines look mostly clear. Then install ink, run a few more cycles and test to make sure all the channels are printing right. Might be a good idea to flush the...

Make sure to do a voltage calibration when adjusting the voltages, can't really guess on them or use parameters from other machines. With things degrading over the span of the print, I am thinking it might be something more mechanical. Air in head, ink starvation, head bleeding, etc. Check your...

In bulk, I get LH-100 for about $75/liter, LUS-170 for $90/liter, LUS-120 for $65/liter when I buy in bulk.

Yup, no real "wrong way" to do it between rebuild or replace. Do what works best for you.

You gotta remove the tube first, the barbed fittings are threaded Luer Lock style for 3mm ID. The pump needs to be disassembled with the 2 black screws holding the pump bodies together. Then you remove the 3 larger Philips screws to split the pump bodies from the sheet metal panel. If they don't...

Just plain jane barb fittings, tug off the old tubing, shove into new tubing. That said, replacing the pump is safest/easiest bet if not sure if your tubing is up to the task. Ink is expensive, and the mess sucks.

Pump modules are around $60, or can replace the tubing and rehuild if you want to go cheap. Make sure you use proper pump tubing for it and silicone grease.

Have a picture of the emulator and can you see what chip it is based on? Might be able to figure out how to program it from there. Seems the LFP guys don't have their engineer anymore, so lots of complaints on getting those to work as of late.

LH100 still uses the old-style chips, so they should be super easy to emulate. You can also reset the chips with about $10 in hardware and free software if you want to go that route.

Swapping heads seems to be good for limited troubleshooting only. Since they are running different tuning/firing parameters, stuff gets wonky fast.

Current operation manual, page 42 on the PDF (section 2, page 8) shows the ideal lamp settings for each ink type. LUS-120 is the easiest, 0 for almost everything except 190 on both lamps if doing color on white. To add a second clear base layer, look at the guide Adam posted. On page 14 it...

No service manual on hand for this one, so not sure. Look for slots in the platen where the media rests under the head.

Try unloading the media entirely and see if the error stays the same. Check along the media guides, rollers and encoders for built up dirt, paper fibers, etc.