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On a JFX500 we have, the station board had a bad IC. Just resoldered in a replacement and spent $12 instead of $500. Might've been a stepper driver chip, would have to look it up if this were the case. Usually ink in sensors or bent/maligned tabs tend to do it. Also, if I don't want to help...

Note how the M is bridged to the other M, Y and Y, C and C, K and K, if those junctions are not installed, you're going to have nothing but headaches.

Sometimes, I also keep weird hours. People call me at all hours of the night sometimes when stuff goes down. Should probably charge them.

When doing 4 color, the cartridges deplete one at a time, allows hot-swapping. You're fine. Just need to install the line bridge connectors that common the like-colors together.

Track the station motor wiring back and it should be the board that the stepper plugs into. Have a service manual you can reference?

Might be the endstop switch not reading or damaged if I were to guess. I think the station PCB has an LED light for the switch/sensor, try moving something back and forth between it and see if you can see the LED blinking.

Went through same, but not at a desk. Will follow up later if nobody else responds.

UV ink is typically a bad idea for food contact surfaces and clothing. So toner is usually a safe alternative, or sublimation.

Helped some folks setup and run 3 head Chinese flatbeds, but they end up spending $5k on the printer and another couple grand calling me at all hours for help before up and running.

Contact your Mimaki dealer.

I'll leave you to it then. Might want to do a cap alignment procedure as well, covered in service manual.

Swap the heads or still using the crusty ones?

Subtanks barely go bad, likely pressure/vacuum manifold.

If you want to get real technical, they're Epson L1440 unlocked heads designed for third party use. https://epson.com/inkjet-printheads?msockid=3e910c29923467b831ae19f693fb6644

Are you using RasterLink 7?

This is the WTB section. Maybe toss in some pictures, including of the usage, time, nozzle check and all that. Does it come with software? Ink? Depending on the area, even with a new head, a CJV150-75 can be head with a good head can be a slow sell as the small width really handicaps them.

Subtanks (no dampers) rarely go bad on these, but not a bad idea to swap with heads. Do your best to clean the metal bracketry around the heads. They're crash-guards, so ok to scrub, just avoid hitting the tan ceramic recessed area where the nozzles are.

Did it sit with primer in in? Those heads look trashed, head 1 is probably totally gone if I were to go off the looks alone. 2 and 3 might be recoverable, and head 4 is a wildcard since there is so much ink on it I cannot see much. Pick up some Mimaki Maintenance Fluid 16 and try to wipe the...

Look up underneath the head carriage and get a good look at the nozzle plates to see how they look.

Or, you know, autopsy the motors to check for failure condition.