Looking for paint recommendations for ACM / ACP

[netsol]

Do either spray latex acrylic house paint, DTM (direct to metal) paint, or auto paint/acrylic poly help make this scratch resistant? I have been in the business close to two years now. The owner would like for me to learn how to paint ACM. I am scuffing entire area with 320 grit. Applying an Rustoleum enamel primer, then top coat with an enamel paint, and applying a clear coat. But, after letting it cure for 48 hrs., I will still able to make light scratches with a fingernail. ANy ideas on how to make it somewhat scratch resistant? Thanks.

scratch resistance comes from adding a hardner additive

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Thanks for the info. I finally bought an HVLP paint sprayer and this was my first attempt at painting ACM with it. I did scuff the surface with 400 grit paper first and the paint job turned out pretty good. (I had done some crosshatch tests on scrap ACM first to make sure this would even work) Then I decided to get clever and spray it with a rattle can of Satin Clear to protect the paint, I think that's where I went wrong. The painted panel sat for two days with a fan running before the top coat was applied, I figured that was long enough. How long does curing realistically take?

Spray a better 2 part single stage acrylic polyurethane and skip that crappy rattle can clear. It's arts and crafts garbage

 

[gnubler]

Spray a better 2 part single stage acrylic polyurethane and skip that crappy rattle can clear. It's arts and crafts garbage

Lesson learned. Can you recommend a brand? And can I spray over what I've done already or should I start fresh on the other side of the panel?

 

[Gino]

Depends on the paint. Some a day or two but most of them for thoroughly curing could be as much as 30 to 60 days. Nobody waits that long. Some places have the capability of putting it in an oven. That'll cook it up real good.....and fast.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Lesson learned. Can you recommend a brand? And can I spray over what I've done already or should I start fresh on the other side of the panel?

I'd start fresh. You could sand and spray the rustoleum again over itself but use an activator (tractor supply used to sell it) or do the other side. I've sprayed over it with a hotter paint and clears many times without a problem but have also had it wrinkle. There's a ton of different paints out there. We have an Imron mix setup but that paint in a low sheen might be a budget breaker. Sherwin Williams has high solids polyurethane, acrolon 218, acrolon ultra which are industrial paints with a decent price point. You will probably have to over reduce any of those to lay out good if youre spraying with a cup gun. They also may have a flow additive for brushing/rolling? Matthews seems to be the go to in the sign world, it's not cheap either but some sign distributors will mix it.

 

[gnubler]

I decided to wrap it with vinyl. Had no idea painting a sheet would become so complicated...

 

[DL Signs]

I grew up in a body shop, and had my own for many years.
+1 for Imron, used it extensively in the automotive world, and in this industry, for sign faces, frames, poles, whatever, it can't be beat, plus they can match corporate colors. It's glossy without clear coat, catalyzed for hardness, and way more scratch resistant than any rattle rocket, enamel, or latex, and gives probably the best UV and weather resistance of all single stage finishes. They still need time to cure, at the body shop we used to just park cars out in the sun for a day or three before putting any graphics, stripes, or emblems on them after painting, and never had any issues. It is more costly than other brands, but it's not the kind of stuff you keep a stock of, only buy what's needed, when it's needed. In a sign shop, unless you're finishing hundreds of panels, you'll probably never buy anything larger than quart, or even pints if your vendor will mix it for you, it goes a long way compared to other paints. Catalyst comes in pints & quarts, the only thing you'll need in a gallon quantity would probably be thinner to clean paint guns, so you can get by with a small flammable cabinet for everything to appease the fire inspector.

 

[SignsNowTN]

We get yearly visits from the local fire marshal. They are very strict about what kind of paints you can spray if you do not have a spray booth that complies with the fire code requirements. For a small company like ours, this type of booth is cost prohibitive. We have experimented with different types of water based paints. (BTW, DTM paint is not restricted to painting bare metal, so it is NOT a dumb idea to use it on different surfaces). Keep in mind that latex paints can take up to 30 days to cure. Also, not all ACM's have the same type of finish. Some are baked enamel, some are polyester. As I mentioned before, we have been using water based paints for 20+ years with excellent results. They are much healthier to use too.

I just posted a 10 x 10 enclosed paint spray booth with ventilation FOR SALE. Let me know if you are interested