Recent content by MikePro

you tell them to leave the extra 4ft on the 16ft posts. orrrrr you just join two posts together with a roll of duct tape :p

the laser eye is really just a switch, easy to bypass if you know how to jump a wire. agreed its a pita, even with the guidebar. mine would always trigger with zero wrinkles and while using the guidebar, turned out I just had to re-seat the mount&alignment of the photoeye as it was ever so...

treat it like a fence

greetings from across the mississippi! I hear they got some niiiice signs round them parts!

quickest fix for fine print issues, is to print in single-direction. agreed to above comments regarding getting your bi-directional alignment dialed-in, but posting a pic of your nozzletest might also confirm whether this could also be a printhead issue.

only pipes I've ever wrapped were overhead parking structure clearance bars, but my trick was just to accept that no one would ever see the top of it :p i still took precautions, and marked center of my graphic and pre-slit the material to ride that line and started at the bottom of the pipe as...

i know you can just buy that woodcarving from Paul White for $7600 Pretty certain that a 3D file of this doesn't exist, but a cutline should be easy to generate via photoshop/illustrator if you're just looking to cut a 2D shape for a print to apply-to.

one of the coolest things i've ever done to laminated lettering, is use doming epoxy on the finished face. holy cow does it make the metallics POP! wish I had a pic to showcase, but it was just me tinkering in the shop on a project for a friend.

yes and no. ideally I'd just let the basematerial be what it is to save time & cost to client, but with PVC you pretty much have to paint it or black will turn grey and white will turn brown with exposure to elements. interior, doesn't really matter, but ultimately acrylic is still muuuuch...

for me, in onyx, it was an issue with using a stroke rather than an object fill for the cutshape designator. was treating the stroke as two lines, and cutting them

we just buy ChemMetal laminate and laminate our own materials with contact cement. huge fan of acrylic as the base material, as the finish is much cleaner by comparison to PVC. I usually route my lettering face-down, which allows me to add stud holes to the backside, but also keeps my upcut...

we do this all the time. paint the letters white & apply reflective on the surface.

can you make some templates that cup the four corners of your sheet, that have registration marks on them? might be difficult if every sheet is a custom cut file, but if you're step&repeating the same cuts then it could be useful basically tricking your machine into scanning a "6x10 sheet" to...

I tend to hijack these kinda threads with the DIY mentaly buuut does it have to be 6ft? ....why not max out a 60" roll on a printer and just "make it work, with a series of posts slapped into the coastline in a curve to wrap it around with grommets & rope/bungee? ....or just source a grand...

i like the sleds for temp signs. just weigh em down with some sandbags, no digging required.