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I have also seen a normal static font showing that kind of overlaps lately, I think it was a font named Inter. FWIW, there was a discussion about this a couple of months ago, and even though it could cause some serious issues not being able to view these overlaps, the hardcore Illustrator...

If the ink set includes clear/varnish, that could be an alternative for small decals perhaps.

You might need a laminate with a little more aggressive adhesive. Not familiar with Arlon's laminates myself, but this is what they say about it. And here is some information about silvering, and here.

You're welcome. gitec01 and Santimus, it would be nice to hear how it goes if any of you decide to go for a 661, what kind of ink you have chosen and how it works for you.

Unfortunately I can not recommend either of them for outdoor use. Stickers show the same tendencies when exposed to sunlight, even though it may be slightly better than UH21. Colors also fade more than I expected (hoped for) so I suggest a layer of varnish to make it better, but it was the same...

Unfortunately I can not recommend either of them for outdoor use. Stickers show the same tendencies when exposed to sunlight, even though it may be slightly better than UH21. Colors also fade more than I expected (hoped for) so I suggest a layer of varnish to make it better, but it was the same...

True, at least as far as I know. I also notice in your screenshots, facundo, that you have different types of registration marks in Flexi and FineCut. You have to choose one of them (I prefer type 1) and make sure this is the setting you have chosen also in the plotter's setup.

Actually he asked if there was "a way to see a "complete" outline/wireframe view", which would reveal both underlying objects as well as Variable Fonts where the characters are split up in pieces. An outline in Draw is what Illustrator calls a stroke, while a text object converted "to outline"...

Really? The OP shows where it could be of importance to know whether the text will be cut correctly or split up in pieces, and where a quick look in wireframe/outline mode would be an easy way to find out. Regarding "hidden objects" that was mentioned, I have noticed over the years that files...

Don't know about the 426 but I have its bigger sister 626 here and I assume they are rather similar. I switched from UH21 to US11 inks some years ago and got this information (attached) from Mutoh, with information about emptying and refilling the lines. You may have to enter Service mode to be...

Looks like you need to check one or two things. The printheads probably need to be cleaned or possibly replaced, and the banding 10sacer mentioned is terrible, it shouldn't look like that on a 365, not even if you run 4 passes. The reason you get different results on the logo and text is...

Few passes is faster but increases the risk of banding and the ink dots are most likely bigger but fewer. (May differ between printers, inks and techniques) The visual appearance should theoretically be the same though, at least from a distance. More passes, less y-axis movement and less ink...

To get a specific color printed on paper, vinyl or whatever, with transparent CMYK inks, you need a specific amount of ink. If the printer adds more or less ink, hue, lightness and saturation will change. Therefore, it shouldn't really matter what resolution, speed or number of passes you use...

I'm using a small and very ear and wallet friendly Semco AC4504 (Kyocera?). The application tables (at least the smaller ones) don't consume much air, so there's no need for big and noisy compressors.

You should perform head alignment and color calibration after replacing the printheads. Not sure how to do it on a 315 but my 365 has a built in spectrophotometer that makes calibration very easy. Apparently, the 315 uses the on-board line sensor to calibrate colors but I have no idea how it...

I switched from UH21 to US11 on my VJ-626UF a couple of years ago. The UH21 ink was great in many ways, the colors were very good and the details I could produce were amazing. I very soon found though that the ink was extremely rigid and brittle, and it also continued to harden when exposed to...

Ja hej på dej, Bengt, från södra Halland. :) Yes I think it is worth a try. No air channels but not too difficult to apply dry. Please let us know the result.

Try a translucent white on one panel to get an impression of what it will look like, they are matte and will blend into the panels nicely, I think. Depending on how much you need, there is Spandex IP 2516 PA with PerfectApply adhesive, but I think it comes in 50 m rolls only. An ordinary...

There can be a significant difference in file size, depending on whether the embedded color profile is an RGB or a CMYK profile. The "AdobeRGB1998.icc" profile is only 560 byte (!), while the "CoatedFOGRA39.icc" CMYK-profile is 639 kB for example, and there are others that are even worse.

Some laminates are very difficult (impossible) to hand laminate without getting noticeable silvering. Using a roll to roll laminator with some heat will probably make it better. In your case, if you don't want to buy an expensive laminator, I suggest trying other laminates. See if you can get...