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We always cut to shape first, then print. You will damage pieces if you always fabricate after printing. Create the shapes in your design software, send to the fabricator, print a jig on your flatbed printer, print the piece - works 100% of the time...

Yes. Have to figure for the printing taking longer to print and you may have anywhere from 1-4 layers of white to get the desired effect

Looks like Oraguard 290 is over $400 for a 36" roll. We buy the 30" Oraguard as it has been more widely available. Grimco Offers Briteline WrapCast Overlaminate in Optically Clear - a 54" roll is about the same price as the mentioned 290, but for about $20 Grimco will slice the rolls to 36" and...

Some of these do this when you first start the computer and the printer and the solution is to do a restart on the computer. You might have to do this start computer, start printer, restart the computer every day (assuming this works).

I would use a high performance white vinyl, not an intermediate with RA (raipd Air, aka air egress channels). I would also clean it with glass cleaner first and alcohol second (to remove waxes) and post form heat to get the adhesive to fully tack. Wiper blades will wipe off and/or damage vinyl...

First thing to do is find out what sign supply companies deliver in your area. You can also look up to see if you have acrylic distributors or fabricators local to you (we do and sometimes they have better prices). Acrylic sheets are expensive to ship... A fabricator could be particularly useful...

PET Banner material. We use stands much like the Orbus stands. We use 24" and 30" wide units the most

I remember those. I remember the early Gerber plotters too - manual weights you put on top of the blade holders. It was a big deal when we could finally scan a logo and reproduce it.

Pastel colors are printed using fewer ink drops per square ink, thus they reveal issues in material prep more readily. Static usually causes your print to look fuzzy (like an old TV) and leaves overspray after some areas (the static causing some droplets to miss their mark or make an odd shape...

We use orange plastic blades and Alcohol - either isopropyl or denatured (depending on the ink chemistry, if one doesn't work the other does). Let sit for a minute or two and keep it wet and watch for first sign of wrinkling and then it comes off like a decal.

Set up your print file with any bleed in Flexi and setup a contour cut path, Select the whole thing and your Contour Cut Mark button should be activated - Choose "GCC 4 Point cut marks and click the green check mark. Send the file to print, then put it in your plotter, initialize, and then move...

Oracal 3551 Rapid Air - great vinyl and easy to apply. Can laminate with a premium UV laminate and will get you a good 7 year outdoor (plus) life.

Need to calibrate these every once in a while. Joseph44708 gave you instructions. There is a target from Graphtec you can download if you want. I find this useful when calibrating (FWIW we have had ours for five years, calibrated it a year one, and again this spring - that is it and our volume...

I second using OEM flush. In my experience Isopropyl Alcohol also works on some, Denatured Alcohol on others depending on chemistry - they often need to soak in order to react with the alcohol or flush. The right flush is usually better. But if the machine sat for too long it may be a forlorn hope.

listen to Texas_Signmaker, Gino, and JBurton - they all gave good advice. Your client doesn't know anything about high winds and signs. VHB tape or construction adhesives are only as good as the hold the paint has, and on iron signs the paint only haolds as good as the prep cleaning and the...

You Really should talk to Mark Snelling on here from Hasco - he can help you out. We have a FluidColor with Gen 6 Ricoh heads and the heads are great! Yes Onyx can do layers of white and spot white, in fact it has more options than RasterLink for our Mimaki UCJV330 roll to roll UV. Only thing...

That sounds more like as layers are added the opacity of the white is reduced and the yellowish tint becomes more pronounced. There are many different shades of white - some with blueish tint, pink tint, or yellow tint. I am thinking your base white ink leans toward yellow and this is why as you...

A couple of points to add: we prefer to use .64" overlap - I think .25" is a bit too small; the material can and does stretch when applied, so you must take care to apply in the same way for each panel. with a bit more overlap, and a shape like that, you might be able to cut away some of the...

Check with Mark Snelling on here.

White ink has some issues, which is why many printers have a motor to stir the ink and/or recirculate ink. It does yellow as it ages as well. Strictly speaking, you should print a block using white ink once per day (maybe 12"x12") and be prepared to purge the white ink out and add fresh ink...