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Mutoh instructed us that the lawyers go after the client but the client goes after the sign shop. Don’t let the client make you produce a non-compliant sign. Download the style sheet and show it to them. Make them sign off on it. Disability activists look for non-compliant signs.

The dividing line between automatic cleanings and Longstore is about two weeks. Any longer than that, Longstore makes more sense. In addition, no worries about power interruptions

Put it in Longstore mode: order 4 cleaner cartridges and replace the ink with cleaner. Then unplug it and walk away. Longstore is in the “Setup” menu. Just follow the instructions.

Hope not. Of course we bought DigiCut and Interwest

US is soft ink and UH is hard ink. For acrylic and glass you’d want UH

Can also be ink that has gotten into the ribbon cable connection. In essence, a short.

If this was a VerteLith issue, I’d say you had either chosen the wrong print environment or changed a setting in one. It’s definitely a software problem, but I’m totally unfamiliar with that RIP. Good luck.

It’s a timing issue. First check service level UniDi calibrations if the magenta is shifted

Then the rear/edge sensor calibration need to be done. Prior to that if possible, clean the rear sensor with a tech swab and a little 91% alcohol.

The media is lifting off the preheater behind the pinch rollers. Try feeding slack off the front of the roll to create a loop. Be sure to maintain it, or your problem will reoccur

There is a thread about a 1614 not printing anything. Basically the main board is the same. Look up that thread and you can read about a blown head fuse and where it’s located.

In my opinion, as a 40+ year tech, the only reliable places to buy Mutoh parts other than directly from Mutoh ( through B&H) is solventinjet or digiprint. And digiprint has had some issues lately according to customers

You may have blown the fuse again between head changes. It is VERY sensitive to board and cable connections. Recheck everything

In the electronics box underneath the main body

All VJs with the exception of the 1604 had replaceable nano fuses. The 1604 used pico fuses soldered to the board. Please see Mutoh Tech bulletin below. With the 1624, the fuses were labeled differently but the locations were mostly the same. See illustration attached. When purchasing...

The head fuse is a nano fuse located on the upper right corner of the main board behind the big black finned heat sinks. It is rated at 750ma. You have to pry it out of the socket to test it, but it sounds like the culprit. Depending on the model of printer, it is either F2 or F3.

If it’s absolutely nothing, you have a blown head fuse

Often the edge sensor gets ink on it. It is on the bottom of the carriage and reads across the black line. Clean it with 91% alcohol and a swab

See attached PDF

You need to recalibrate your rear edge sensor