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Are you UV printing and cutting w. laser in full.... Do you find the laser affects the ink and can cause some aberrations on the side.

And in comparison a metal acm?

Anyone using a PVC backer??

I am curious myself. The white ink presents a problem as it is a low energy surface. We have tried several glues and double sided laminates. Also very expensive banner tape to mount the acrylic to a PVC backer and then attach a French Cleat directly to the PVC. Never had the cleat come off...

Sublimation ink should not be used after expiration. IT grows mold. I was told this from a friend who is an ink manufacturer. Cheaper to throw ink than fix the printer.

I think the black is the biggest problem. And gets used the least. LMK if that works.

We have had something similar. Change all inks out. I used a suction to drain the tanks. My guess ink is going bad. Then do some Rich Black purge printing on junk paper to drain the ink from the lines and ...have the new ink run through. Hope that makes sense.

How is the cliché produced.

Hmmm. So Canvas, Matte and Satin has been no issues for the most part. I have some satin in testing outdoors on floors without issues for medium traffic. We only use exterior as I am located in the Caribbean in Aruba. So all CL fades in less than a year w. window light, and the EXT of CL...

Interesting. Try the Duraluxe Matte or Satin. Gorgeous metal. Superior product. The Chromaluxe Glossy is a nicer..

Sublimate a section on a different press. To rule out the press... Even a little one.

I have had similar problems. Appears sometimes due to residue from the protective film. I suggest test a section Goo be Gone. to be sure all residue is removed. We use some standard metal but mostly press Duraluxe metal. Temp is 380 and time is 140 seconds. We always use a protective paper...

Order it from a wholesaler. Will be less expensive than you think and look nice. I have acoustic panels in my house and I can't see myself UV printing on them. If your UV printer has soft ink you can print on material. Mine is hard ink. Which I think would not be ideal for sound absorption.

Why not use sublimation and add a fabric cover. Some strechable material.

We never had the green color problem till we changed Black Inks (still Epson just a refill). We will be cleaning out the old black and trying a new black to see if that helps. How do you make your custom profiles? Are you using Epson for the rip or other. I have the option to use Flexi which...

How about caring the ACM with a spray laminate or roll laminate after UV print on the ACM. We do use pretreatment for adhesion promotion for all our UV long term prints with good results. So far 1 year in direct sunlight in the Caribbean.

We use the 6370 as well. We have experienced the same green shift even when printing with Rich Black. We will be testing some adjustments shortly but everything g was fine till recently. But on some prints we are getting a perfect black. I need ti measure the color mix to see the difference.

What about something like Quick Snaps that you can mount with adhesive to the back? I have been using them quite often as cost effective with bi component glue.

THank you. I also thought the primer would be of high importantance.

Also what thickness of tape do you use? Most of my experience is in metal sublimation and we use a self adhesive PVC cleat system that has been amazing both cost wise (almost the same cost as VHB tape per inch.