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I stand by using chewing gum and toothpaste.

Here is an illustrated step-by-step instruction manual, updated for 2024 to include photographs! Hopefully, the photos are enough to illustrate our installation method used on rendered walls.

Sight unseen, I'd suggest toothpaste and bubblegum.

The OP's version looks kind of generic and FastSigns-ish. The in-law's version may be harder to read, but it looks more professional, presents a better image than a bunch of words in a box, and will be more successful at catching the viewer's eye.

We use White 7328 acrylic and mill it down leaving a shoulder for attaching the letters to the cabinet. It's a lot less labor than gluing letters to a separate panel and there are no worries about the adhesive failing.

Most modern fonts have glyphs for both typographic quote marks and straight quotation marks. If the font in question has OpenType features, check if there is a Stylistic Alternate for the straight quotes and, if that isn't available, you can use the character map built into Windows to find and...

1. Does the city where the sign was installed not require a permit before you install a sign? I'm in the Atlanta metro & every single town and city requires a permit for almost any sign - including on-property directionals & whatnot. 2. You need to do your due diligence and research the sign...

From what our purchasing department has told me, both Johnson Plastics & Vista System are offering the same extrusions as JRS used to.

That's why we use Kalisign, amongst others. They populate the acrylic with individual embedded LEDs and I've yet to encounter any hotspots in anything they produced for us.

I have a great process. I send a PDF to a vendor who produces this type of sign on a daily business (we typically use either Kalisign or Resno by Bitro) and let them worry about fabrication while I collect a check w/o the hassle. :rock-n-roll:

You could always flatten the image and then remove the white background.

Kalisign (kalisign.com) produces logos like that from solid acrylic and they are beautiful.

How did you get architectural from arithecial?? You must be a whiz at the NYT crossword puzzle! :notworthy:

Which Chemetal are you using? I was under the impression that Chemetal was only rated for interior use. How do you treat the returns & the seams where the returns are welded to the faces?

What's the cost of living like in Phoenix, AZ? I'm currently on the outskirts of the Atlanta Metro area where it used to be less expensive to live - especially from CT where I was living before I moved to GA.

It could be Corian, Formica, or WilsonArt solid surface material. If the panel is painted, I would suggest Zolatone—maybe the Grey Stone Spatter Finish.

I've never heard the term "route-out show-through faces" before. I've worked in places where the terms "routed & backed faces" and "routed aluminum faces" were used, but never "ROST". Maybe it's a regional thing. Where are you located?

That depends on the job. At my work, about 50% of the wayfinding projects we receive are designed by EGD firms and/or architects, and about 50% are designed in-house by me and the rest of the Design department. I think the largest wayfinding program I designed had about 4800-5000 signs which...

When it comes to a logo, who's to say what is correct or not. Maybe the S is intentionally the way it is. I've encountered many "mistakes" in logos that were much more grievous, but that was the way the designer - and the end user - wanted it.

It wouldn't be fun but, if you route the logo from 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum plate, you could tap each individual piece of the logo and stud-mount them back to the wall. I would add thin wall PVC tube spacers to keep the stand-off from the wall consistent and, if the spacers are painted green, they...