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5 x 10 Table

mameighan

New Member
Ok, I know there are several threads on table top surfaces but how do you make a 5 x 10 when the standard materials only come in 4 x 8? I know you can just add two feet at the end but if you are using it for example masking, how do you account for the seam? Example, I know that the Big Squeegee doesn't like an uneven surface.

What sort of materials can I pick up from Home Depot, Lowes or ship from Grimco that would be a good smooth surface on its own or that I attach to the surface?

How is a rhino mat attached to the surface? Just by weight or secured in some way?

I have someone building the table (I cant hammer a nail straight) but want to have some more information going in.

any help is appreciated.

Mark
 

mameighan

New Member
Haha - just realised adding two feet does not make 5 x 10, just a 4 x 10...so what do you guys do for 5 x 10? Three sheets???
 

rossmosh

New Member
Build the frame out of lumber. Throw a sheet of 5x10 MDF on top. Secure it with glue and screws. Throw a piece of 3mm PVC on top secured with glue/spray adhesive. When the PVC gets too screwed up, throw another sheet over it. All of these materials should be pretty easy to get from any decent sign supply company.
 

phototec

New Member
Ok, I know there are several threads on table top surfaces but how do you make a 5 x 10 when the standard materials only come in 4 x 8? I know you can just add two feet at the end but if you are using it for example masking, how do you account for the seam? Example, I know that the Big Squeegee doesn't like an uneven surface.

What sort of materials can I pick up from Home Depot, Lowes or ship from Grimco that would be a good smooth surface on its own or that I attach to the surface?

How is a rhino mat attached to the surface? Just by weight or secured in some way?

I have someone building the table (I cant hammer a nail straight) but want to have some more information going in.

any help is appreciated.

Mark

Don't used a hammer, any good sign shop should have all the tools necessary to build a production table. I built mine out of 2x4 legs and 2x6 rails and cross members with a plywood top and bottom shelf for storage. It's all screwed together then covered the top with a Rhino cutting mat with the printed grid, which is worth every penny for the grid. I just used industrial double sided tape to secure, that way easy to change out some day if the cutting mat gets bad.
 

ams

New Member
You can get 5' X 10' table materials in one piece. But it's mega heavy.
I actually have a 5' X 12' table. I have a 5' X 12' Rhino cutting mat and has never once moved on me, the weight keeps it there. You can add industrial strength velcro under it if you want.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
A 5' × 10' is a nice size, but do you need something, that wide ?? Are many of your projects are 5' wide ?? If so, why not do it right and go 5' × 12', instead ??

Most of our tables are 44" wide by 22' and one at 27', but we have two portable tables that both measure 5' × 10'. We roll them wherever we need more working space. Also, we built horses galore and can make tables anywhere, if necessary as long as we need. In the bay area, we've had tables going 5'and 6' by 110' when painting things or whatever.

Think about what you really need and address it accordingly.
 

31legen

New Member
5x10

In my opinion you can never have too much work surface. Id build as big as you can. You never know what opportunities will come your way. I built 2 5x10 tables and a 5x8 table. I do alot of large equipment fleet graphics, (cranes, road tractors, truck wraps, etc.).

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Billct2

Active Member
We have two 5x8s, but could just as easily have been 5x10.
Build the table any way you like, with or without a seam and then throw a one piece self healing mat on top.
You can use some double stick tape to keep it in place. Ours last years.
 

mameighan

New Member
thanks for all the input.

I think just the plywood and a self healing mat on the top is going to be the way to go. I like the idea of the PVC but my local supplier seems to only have 4 x 8.
I do quite a few full 4 x 8 signs so wanted the extra few foot around it for a buffer zone

Thanks
 

d fleming

Premium Subscriber
My tops are galvanized. Comes in 5x10. Mine are 16 years old now and still working just fine. And magnets stick to it.
 

mameighan

New Member
Build the frame out of lumber. Throw a sheet of 5x10 MDF on top. Secure it with glue and screws. Throw a piece of 3mm PVC on top secured with glue/spray adhesive. When the PVC gets too screwed up, throw another sheet over it. All of these materials should be pretty easy to get from any decent sign supply company.


RossMosh would palight 3mm PVC from Grimco work as a surface?
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
for me my table i made it out of extruded aluminum. put it on some nice whiles and added a premask holder. works perfect for all i have needed it for
 

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2B

Active Member
Build the frame out of lumber. Throw a sheet of 5x10 MDF on top. Secure it with glue and screws. Throw a piece of 3mm PVC on top secured with glue/spray adhesive. When the PVC gets too screwed up, throw another sheet over it. All of these materials should be pretty easy to get from any decent sign supply company.


we did ours similar, we used .125 aluminum made it 4 x 10 and than added a 12mm PVC top. We tried the 3mm but it was too thin and was able to cut through.
Wish we could have done ours as a 5x10 but non of our suppliers carry the PVC in the 5x10, that's why we had to go with the 4x10 as we didn't want any seams

You should ALWAYS make the table larger than your intended signs. example would be banners, you have a 4x8 banner and 4x8 work table you are constantly having to shift the banner around to hem it and place grommets in it
 

Andy D

Active Member
for me my table i made it out of extruded aluminum. put it on some nice whiles and added a premask holder. works perfect for all i have needed it for

I like those, good idea.
What's your tabletop material made out of?
We have ones similar out of angle iron but they don't look anywhere that nice.
The one thing I noticed is you don't have locking wheels, how do you keep them from rolling while taping?
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
the wheels are locking wheels. not sure if i got those that good in the picture. but the table is made out of aluminum and a plywood base under the glass. for an added flair i put some graphic between the wood and glass. used some plastic strips to line around the glass and a rubber bumper edge holding it all together.
i normally only keep 30" premask loaded since it works the best for me and easiest for a single person to use than a wider roll
 
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